The Tools Needed

Mounting the optic is crucial to get the most performance out of the gun. To do so, we need a few tools. I’m sure plenty of people have mounted their optics without a problem with nothing more than an Allen key, but I find having a few tools can help immensely. Here’s what we’ll need:

• Inch Pounds Torque Wrench
• Scope Levels
• Vise
• Sturdy Bench To Work

That’s it! With that, we can become optically inclined and properly mount our optics.

A Word On Bases

There are lots and lots of different rifles with lots and lots of different bases. The most common these days is some form of rail, most likely Picatinny. A Picatinny rail is the standard if you have a flat-top AR-15. Guns like the Ruger 10/22 often come with a weaver base.

Lots of bolt-action rifles offer you the option of avoiding abase altogether and mounting rings directly to the gun. Quite a few more modern options have the scope base be a part of the rifle’s receiver. Guns like the Savage Impulse offer you a Picatinny rail that’s part of the receiver.

I prefer Picatinny rails as my base with scope rings or a one-piece mount. A Picatinny rail allows me to easily adjust the placement of the optic for proper eye relief. Rings that thread directly to the receiver remove some tolerance stacking. They can be very rigid but limit your eye relief options.

There are many bases, and each has its pros and cons. Due to the number of different base options, it’s tough to tell you how to mount yours. I suggest following the instructions and paying special attention to the torque required to attach the base to the gun. If you do not properly attach the base, you’re starting on the wrong foot. It’s the easiest step to get right, so get it right, torque it down, and when in doubt, double-check.

How To Mount a Scope

Alright, let’s get into the meat and potatoes of mounting an optic. Get your tools ready, get a comfortable working environment, get your gun, rings or mount, and optic, and let’s get ready. The first thing we are going to do is ensure your weapon is completely clear. Remove the magazine if applicable. Open the action and check the chamber visually and physically to ensure the gun is empty.

Once the gun is clear, we can start installing the optic. For safety’s sake, any work, even minor, needs a cleared gun. Don’t skip this step!

Step One – Get Setup

You’ll need a stable, sturdy working environment. A flimsy table that moves every time you adjust the gun won’t do. Set up your vise in an area you can work around and over. Attach the gun to the vice and tighten it down. It shouldn’t twist, move forward, rearward, or to the sides.

Step Two – Attach Your Rings or Mount

In my example, I’m attaching one-piece mounts to AR-type rifles. This is the simplest way to attach a magnified optic to a rifle. I’m going to tighten the mount most of the way to the gun, but I’m not torquing it down yet. I may want to adjust it in the next step. You can attach your rings the same way. Get them in position, but don’t torque them down just yet.

With the rings or mount on the gun, remove the top part of the rings and set them aside for now. Be careful not to lose any of those tiny little bolts.

Step Three – Drop The Optic Into the Rings

Place your optic inside the mount. The rings should not sit against the magnification ring or any adjustment turrets. You want a little space so you can use the turrets for adjustments. I also learned a hard lesson about backup red dots. My backup red dot is attached to my rings.

My rings were far enough from the adjustment turrets, but when I installed my mini red dot, it sat right against them. Unfortunately, I discovered this after step six, after having already tightened everything up. If you’re running a backup red dot attached to the rings, double-check that distance as well.

With rough spacing between the rings, place the tops of the rings on the mount or rings and secure them just slightly. Wait to torque the rings down. Tighten them a bit like a tire. Just incrementally tighten each one and swap from bolt to bolt, tightening it just a bit.

The scope rings should be tight enough to hold the optic still but allow you to move it back and forth manually. It should take just a little effort.

Step Four – Check the Eye Relief

Loosen the vise and pop the gun out. Turn the magnification to its highest setting. Shoulder the rifle with your head in a natural position. We are checking for eye relief. You may need to move the optic backward and forward to get it just right. We want a clear image without scope shadow.

If you adjust the optic to the point where the adjustment turrets or magnification rings are setting against the rings, we have to adjust the rings or mount forward or aft. This is a hassle, but that’s why we didn’t roque the rings down just yet. If necessary, adjust your mount or rings to allow you to establish a clear sight picture with proper eye relief. Once we have proper eye relief, the rifle returns to the vise.

Step Five – Level It Out

Place the gun back in the vise, and we will level it out. Attach a level to a solid spot on the gun. Obviously, a wide, flat surface close to the optic is preferred. As you tighten the vise, you may need to adjust the rifle to ensure it remains level.

Once the vise is tight and the gun is still level, grab your torque wrench and attach the optic mount of rings to the appropriate torque settings. These settings should be easy to find and are likely between 30 and 40-inch pounds.

This one goes on the scope itself. The turret, with the cap off, is often the best place for the second level. With the second level installed, you need to begin leveling the scope itself. You may rotate it left or right a bit, and once it’s perfectly level, we’ll need the torque wrench.

Step Six – Tighten up

While keeping the rifle and optic level, you’ll need to begin tightening down the tops of the rings. Remember to alternate as you tighten—a little for one, a little for the other, and so forth. Half turns are a conservative way to tighten each bolt. Ensure you are using the manufacturer’s recommended torque specs.

Different manufacturers have different specs. Vortex might do 1-18 inch pounds, but Warne says use 20-25 inch pounds. Either way, learn it, love it, and live it. As you tighten, keep an eye on the level and ensure it stays level. Once it’s tightened to spec, congratulations—you’re done. You just need to zero the gun and optic.

Optically Inclined

Attaching most red dots and even prism sights is easy. Just toss it on and forget about it. With variable magnified optics, it can be tricky but not overly difficult. Sadly, only Trijicon makes LPVOs with integral mounting systems. For now, if you follow the above steps, you’ll be golden.

The post The Ultimate Guide to Mounting a Rifle Scope appeared first on The Mag Life.

PVC target stands can be tossed in the back of your truck, set up wherever they’re needed, and customized according to your needs. Best of all, building one is an affordable, straightforward project. We’ll walk you through the steps to build a PVC target stand. This DIY project is just a trip to the hardware store away.

What’s a PVC target stand?

PVC is a thermoplastic material known for being strong but lightweight. It’s hollow and used for things like plumbing and related construction work. It’s also great for outdoor activities like jug lines for catfish and, of course, making target stands. Part of what makes it so perfect for these projects is that it’s affordable and can last forever. The use of PVC makes them durable while remaining light and easy to move around. Plus, you can paint PVC and make your target stand look however you want. This target stand can be made according to the height you require and includes thin lengths of wood, called furring strips, for the portion that holds the targets.

What do you need to make a PVC target stand?

Odds are that you have the tools for this project, but you’ll likely need to hit your local hardware store for the rest. To build a target stand that includes a cross piece for added support and is the correct width for full-size targets, you need the following:

• (1) PVC pipe 10 feet in length with a diameter of 1.25 or 1.5 inches
• (1) PVC pipe 2 feet in length with the same diameter as the longer pipe
• (2) PVC 90-degree elbow connector
• (4) PVC Tee connector, unthreaded on all openings
• (2) PVC end cap (closed on one end, designed to fit over the open end of the pipe, not inside)
• (2) 1-inch by 2-inch by 8-foot furring strips
• (1) PVC cement (you’re fine with only cement and no primer in this case)
• Optional: Spray paint in your preferred color that’s made to adhere to plastic. Four PVC test caps if you’d like to permanently weigh the base of the stand. If you’re going to weigh down the base, you’ll need gravel, sand, or dirt to fill the pipes.

Tools required to build the PVC target stand:

• Measuring tape
• Painter’s or masking tape to more easily mark where to make cuts
• Cutting tool, which can be a Sawzall, PVC pipe cutter, or hacksaw
• Optional: Vise to secure pipe during cutting so it won’t slip

A note on spray paint: If you intend to paint your target stand, it’s a good idea to spray all the pieces before assembly. You can certainly spray paint the finished product, but it’s a bit messier and more likely to be uneven or unfinished in spots.

Step One: Measure and cut the pipe

For this particular target stand, we’ll be cutting eight 16-inch pieces.

If you’re going to add gravel or dirt for weight in the base of the stand, this is the stage where you’d stop and do that. There are several ways to go about it. You could partially assemble the base, fill it, and add end caps or test caps to seal off one end of four pipes. Some shooters prefer all the weight to be in the forward portion of the base. Others want to separate it, so there will be two weighted pipes at the rearmost portion of the base, leaving the two forward pieces empty. If you plan to use weighted pipes, it’s a good idea for one weighted section to be at the front of the stand and another for the cross-piece. If you’re truly ambitious and won’t be moving the target much, you could fill the base with cement.

There are alternatives to filling the pipes, which tend to be preferable if you’re going to move the stand around a lot. You can use just about any heavy object to weigh down the legs of the assembled stand. That could include big rocks, sandbags, or really, anything heavy enough that won’t damage the pipes. Technically, you don’t have to weigh it down at all, but your stand is far more likely to remain upright if you use something to hold down the back of the base.

Step Two: Assemble the base

For the first part of this step, you need three lengths of pipe, two 90-degree connectors, and two end caps. You’re forming the base to look like three sides of a square. Do this by gluing the two 90-degree connectors onto either end of one length of pipe. Then, glue a pipe into the open end of both connectors. This gives you your square minus the back.

The second part of this step requires two “T” connectors, two more pipes, and two end caps. Cement the “T” connectors to the open ends of your base, then cement a length of pipe into the open back side of the connector (not the top). You extended the base to make it longer, turning your three-sided square into a three-sided rectangle. Finally, cement end caps onto the open end of the pipe at the back side of the base.

Step Three: Assemble the uprights and cross-section

With your open-ended rectangular base done, it’s time to add the upright arms and a cross piece for added stability.

Glue a length of pipe into the topmost, open portion of the “T” connector on either side. Next, glue the final two “T” connectors to a single length of pipe. You’ll want to glue that pipe into the middle portion of the “T” piece, not one of the ends. This will leave you with two open ends of the “T” connector for a straight, open pass through to the upright arms (you’ll see why).

Take the cross piece and glue it onto the uprights. Leave the topmost portion of those two “T” connectors open.

Tip: If you don’t have a vehicle large enough to hold the base with the upright arms in place, don’t glue those uprights into the base. It’s possible to push the upright section into the base on-site and remove it for transportation.

Step Four: Add the furring strips

If you’re going to move the target stand around, you want to hold off on adding the furring strips until it’s ready for use. When you’re ready to use the stand and add a target, tap the furring strips into the open ends of the upright section. You can leave them at their eight-foot length for a taller frame or cut them down as needed.

Using the Stand

With the furring strips in place, you have a few options for target placement. You can staple a full-sized paper target, like an IPSC/USPA target, onto the strips. Another option would be to fasten corrugated cardboard to the furring strips and stick or staple smaller targets to that. We use furring strips instead of more PVC for the top of the frame because they’re cheap and easier to replace. When I made my first PVC target stand about 15 years ago, I used PVC for the entire thing. It took under five minutes for another shooter to obliterate the top of my frame with a shotgun. Take it from me: furring strips are cheap and easy to replace, while PVC is not nearly as cheap or simple.

There are practically endless variations to the ways you can make this target stand. Over the years, I’ve done it all, from creating a full, closed base to using PVC to extend the frame upward to a height of seven feet. This simpler target stand is the way to go for my time and money.

The post DIY PVC Target Stands: Cheap Stands for the Home Range appeared first on The Mag Life.

What’s wrong with the traditional AK piston?

I’d take an AK’s piston over a direct impingement AR any day, personally, but there are still some issues with the AK-47’s piston if you want to shoot suppressed. The main one is the lack of adjustability. If you intend to shoot suppressed, an adjustable piston will allow you to dial in the gas pressure to keep the pressure balanced.

When an AK (or any gas-operated rifle) fires, the bullet travels toward the end of the barrel. Behind it, pushing the projectile is a burning cloud of gasses. In the split second before the bullet exits the barrel, some of that gas is diverted into the gas tube, where it pushes a piston back toward the shooter.

This is the action that drives the bolt to the rear, ejects the empty brass, and compresses the spring that—when the pressure subsides—drives the bolt back into battery. It is a beautiful thing to watch in slow motion.

What happens when you add a suppressor to an AK?

The goal, obviously, is a serious reduction in the noise of the 7.62×39 report. The suppressor will capture the expanding gasses, redirect the path of those gasses, cool them dramatically by forcing them in, under, and around a lot of internal surfaces, and still allow the bullet to escape unimpeded.

But the suppressor interrupts the natural path of the gas and creates back pressure in the system. Too much gas. That gas wants to escape however it can, and some of it presses hard against the piston.

When there’s too much gas hitting the piston, it may travel faster than it should. The repetitive stress of a gun that’s over-gassed adds wear to the action. It can even break parts. Actual breakage is uncommon in the AK platform, but there’s still no reason to beat your gun up.

The AR platform addresses this problem most commonly with an adjustable gas block. These exist for the AK, too. The adjustable piston, though, is also a solid option. Make sure you get the right gas length—like this one for the AKM.

The KNS Precision Adjustable Gas Piston

The way this works—once it is in the gun—is easy to understand. The collar has grooves running perpendicular to the piston’s shaft. Gas, hitting the plunger, escapes down these grooves. Turning this collar moves it up or down, restricting or opening up the line for more gas.

As all of this is enclosed within the gas tube, you will need to open the gun up to make adjustments. After installation, take the gun for a test run.

Before you start on the build, take the gun (assuming you’re not building this from the ground up) and have an assistant shoot some video of the action moving during live fire. You may be attuned to how the rifle runs in its stock form and know how it feels.

After reassembling the gun, you’ll repeat this. Close off the piston’s vents and then do another test run. In this configuration, without a suppressor, everything should be running as it did before. If it isn’t, the video will show, and you can make adjustments accordingly.

With a suppressor attached—that’s another topic entirely—you’ll want to do another test-fire. This is a trial-and-error sort of thing. I tend to open the system up completely—taking the piston from the most closed off to the most wide open—for these tests.

The results you see will vary based on the suppressor, the length of the barrel, and the ammo you’re using, but tracking these variables and understanding the why behind it all will help you make predictions.

Installing the piston

How handy are you? Most AK pistons are riveted to the bot carrier. Rivets suck.

Look closely at the top of the bolt carrier, near the piston, and you can see where the pin has been peened over and then ground to match the profile of the bolt carrier. It will likely be a thin line that gives it away.

A center punch here makes it easier to drill out. If you try to drill out the head, your bit may skate on the steel. Not good. Punch an indentation, then drill it out (I used a 5/32 bit).

You aren’t drilling through the bolt carrier—just through the tip of the rivet’s top. Once that is free (you’ll feel the change through the drill if you are using a hand drill), stop.

Next, drift the remaining body down and out. A brass punch and a light hammer make easy work of this. This rivet isn’t holding in the actual piston—that screws into the bolt carrier. When the pin is out, you should be able to turn the piston by hand.

To add the KNS, you simply screw the new piston back in. At its base, there are two through-holes. This allows for some of the AK’s notoriously loose tolerances. Simply screw it in place, and get it far enough in to align one of those holes with the bolt carrier, then insert one of the roll pins that comes with the kit and tap it into place (a roll pin punch will make this much easier).

At this point, you should be ready to go. The roll pin will prevent the piston from spinning loose. Make sure it is deep enough in, slightly counter-sunk on both sides, and it won’t interfere with the motion.

Dry fit your parts, and make sure everything works as intended by cycling the action a few times. If something is off, you may have the wrong length. KNS makes many, as there are many gas-system lengths in AK land (and they make other useful parts, too).

Does it work?

There’s only one way to tell. Hit the range.

With the rifle back together and cycling like it should, you’ll need to test out the various piston positions to see what runs best with what you’re shooting. Keep in mind that not all 7.62×39 is the same.

I tend to use two settings more than others–the one that works best for suppressed fire and the one that allows the gun to run reliably with steel-cased import ammo. With those two variables known, this gun has taken on an entirely new level of functionality.

The post AK-47 Upgrades: Why Add an Adjustable Gas Piston to an AK-47? appeared first on The Mag Life.

So, my thought was, “Why pay several hundred dollars for a headset for my helmet when I could use a pair of Walker’s Razor Slim earmuffs?” The only problem is Walker’s doesn’t make a headset that works with the ARC rail on a helmet. I used a pair of 3M Peltor ARC adaptors and made my own using a pair of earmuffs I already have. It was relatively easy, and definitely more affordable than any other system I could have found.

Let’s break it down.

ARC Rail attachments

If you have a high-cut helmet, it’s nice to have earmuffs attached to it. This is the most comfortable and convenient method for wearing both while shooting firearms. There are several cheaper ARC rail attachments on the market (under $20), but they don’t hold up well. I would recommend using 3M Peltor ARC rail attachments for converting your existing earmuffs to work with a rail. These normally run about $45 and work with most headset wire mounts (see photo below).

Walker’s Razor Slim Electronic Earmuffs

For the price, it’s hard to beat Walker’s Razor Slim electronic earmuffs. The built-in microphones make me feel like I have superhuman hearing, and the noise cancellation works great. I’ve used them for shooting, mowing, working in the wood shop, and other high-noise applications. Another thing that stands out with these is how comfortable they are. You can wear them all day without hurting your ears, and the batteries last a while, too.

I have a full review in another article on these earmuffs and the Razor Walkie-Talkie attachment that works with them. If you haven’t used these together before, it’s worth checking out. The walkie-talkie clips to the side of the Razor earmuffs and allows multiple people to enjoy hands-free communication with one another. They don’t have the longest range compared to stand-alone radios, but they are simple to use. Perfect for hunting, range days, and other applications, they are nice because there is no wire or radio to hold on your vest.

Turning Your Walker’s Razor Earmuffs Into An ACR Mounting Headset

Unfortunately, you’ll have to cut open your Walker’s headset to get the wire out of it, so there is no going back once you start. But like I said, I had an extra $45 pair in my garage, so it was a cost-saving method for me. If you want to try this method, here’s what I did with mine:

First, pull the wire brackets out of the earmuffs. These are extendable, but once they’re extended all the way, give them a pull, and they will pop out. That’s the easy part.

The Peltor ARC adaptors have earmuff brackets already on them. I pulled these off so I could insert the metal prongs into the bracket on the Walker’s ear muffs. It’s also easier to attach the Peltor brackets to your helmet before attaching the earmuffs to the bracket. Once they are on, run the wire behind the harness on the back of the helmet to keep it out of the way. Attaching the adaptors to the ARC rail can be a little tough sometimes, but once you have it in the right place, it will stay put.

Affordable Project

If you want to add a radio, the Walker’s Razor walkie-talkie I mentioned above will still work great. It allows you to keep a helmet ready to go with hearing protection and a radio independent of a portable radio and wire. The walkie-talkie plugs into the Walker’s headset when you clip it on. You do have to put batteries in the headset and radio separately, but I’ve used both for a full range day in the past with no issues.

If you purchase everything for this project, you can make your own headset for about $130. And that includes a short-range walkie-talkie. Pick up a pair of Walker’s Razor Slim earmuffs, Razor walkie-talkie, and Peltor ARC adaptors and put them together. The radio won’t come close to competing with a higher-end portable like Motorola or some other brands, but it works great for short-range use.

The post Walker’s Ear Protection: Modifying Existing Earmuffs to Fit a Combat Helmet appeared first on The Mag Life.

I wasn’t about to pull the barrel, gas block, and tube from it. But it’s not as hard as you think, as long as you have the right tools and of course, the right parts. I won’t get into removing and installing the entire barrel in this article because we have covered that before. But we will look at the most common sizes of gas tubes, what they do, and how to find the right one for your barrel. I will also discuss installing the tube itself.

What does the gas tube do?

If you are not familiar with AR-15 rifles, they utilize a direct impingement gas system. When the bolt is closed, it locks into the barrel extension, or what is referred to as a “locked breach.” This is done by lugs on the bolt face that turn to lock in place. When the trigger is pulled, the firing pin strikes the back of the cartridge (primer) and the powder ignites. Because it’s in a confined chamber, there is only one way for the pressure to go, forcing the bullet down the barrel.

At the same time, the magazine pushes a new bullet up in front of the BCG. Because the BCG was to the rear, it compressed the buffer spring, which forces the BCG forward again. This loads the new bullet into the chamber. However, if the tube is the wrong size or installed incorrectly, there will not be enough pressure to cycle the BCG.

Common Sizes of Gas Tubes

There are four common sizes of gas tubes for the AR-15 rifle. Other sizes are out there, but today, we will focus on the most common options. They are identified by length:

• Pistol length: 10-inch barrels or less. Gas tube length: 4-inches.
• Carbine length: 10-18-inch barrels. Gas tube length: 7-inches.
• Mid-length: 14-20-inch barrels. Gas tube length: 9-inches.
• Rifle length: 20 inches and longer. Gas tube length: 12-inches.

If you are wondering why there are different lengths to begin with, it’s because the length of a barrel determines how much energy is harnessed from the propellants in the barrel. The shorter the gas port in the barrel to the chamber, the more energy will travel through it. But the shorter the barrel, the less energy it creates. In other words, if you had a 20-inch barrel with a pistol-length tube, there would be too much energy.

Installing Gas Tubes

I won’t spend a lot of time on this part, but we will do a quick rundown of the process. Unless you buy a tube already installed on a gas block, you will need both. The gas tube has one larger hole, which is the gas port, and a smaller hole that goes through both sides. This allows the pin to secure it to the gas block. Make sure the gas port on the tube is facing the opening in the gas block (see photo below). Slowly tap the pin into the gas black and through the gas tube.

I end up eyeballing mine most of the time, and I’ve never had an issue, but an alignment tool will make sure it’s in the right place. Use a little blue Lock Tite on the set screws before tightening them, but be sure not to over-tighten them. Once this is done, you can complete the installation of your handguard and muzzle device.

Ready to install your own gas tube?

Once you understand the different sizes and how they work, finding the correct tube isn’t hard. When you purchase a new barrel, it should have the gas tube profile listed on the specs. If you plan to shoot different grains of ammunition, you may also want to look for an adjustable gas block. The installation process is the same, but there is a small screw in the block that lets you adjust how much gas gets through it. Don’t be afraid to install your own barrel and gas tube. If the gun doesn’t cycle correctly, remove it and go through the process again. Hands-on learning is the best way to learn, and there are endless learning opportunities with the AR-15 rifle.

The post AR-15 Gas Tube Guide: Selecting the Right Size and Installing appeared first on The Mag Life.

Citadel Levtac 92 Internals

Springs

When my Citadel Levtac 92 arrived, I already had some items on order that I consider crucial if you want one of these guns to operate at its best. I put the Palo Verde Gunworks Rossi 92 spring kit in all my previous 92’s that I owned and the change is remarkable. This spring kit turns your rifle from okay to slicker than snot. The kit includes a main spring with adjustable nylon bushings so you can make the hammer hit exactly as needed instead of like the hammer of Thor. The kit also includes a carrier stop, friction stud, and two ejector springs of different tensions depending on the cartridge. Along with this, the kit includes loads of little tips to adjust the trigger and slick up the rest of the action. When all is said and done, the rifle feels like a completely new beast for only $29.95.

Follower

I also bought a stainless steel magazine tube follower instead of machining one. Buying one for $15.95 is cheaper than doing it myself on a manual lathe. I’ve done this in the past, but I am older and have less time these days. This is an important part to change out because the stock plastic follower is utter junk. It warps and gets screwed up by certain types of lubricants. Since it can’t be relied on, it’s gone — not even tossed in the spare parts bin. While changing this part out, I suggest removing a few inches off the follower spring. This rifle is incredibly over sprung and the shortened spring makes it easier to load. I cut around five inches from mine to get to where I wanted it. Trial and error is key here. Too short and you will have feeding issues.

Citadel Levtac 92 Accessories

Stock

Those two previous things were the biggest pure performance parts on the rifle. However, changing the stock made the rifle feel right. The Levtac’s factory stock is comfortable and works. However, it’s hollow and very light. Some people add spray foam to make it less hollow feeling while some even add weights. Instead, I opted for the Boyd’s Rossi 92 Field Design Stock in Pepper Laminate Wood, Pachmayr recoil pad, and skip line laser engraving. The combination of the wood with all the tacticool parts looks awesome, but — more importantly — adds some weight to the rear of the rifle. This provides a vastly superior balance to the rifle and the recoil pad grips the shoulder firmly with a bit longer length of pull.

The laser engraved checkering is comfortable and gives the meat of your hand something to hold onto on an otherwise slick feeling stock. I found picking a stock through Boyd’s to be an enjoyable experience. The configurator is easy to follow by selecting brand, model, and caliber and has the options displayed in a logical order. You don’t need to search through thousands of SKUs to find the one variation you’re looking for. If they end up making some laser engraved M-LOK wood rail panels, I would likely toss them on the front of the rifle to add some more wood balance in the old meets new build.

Lever Loop

The Citadel Levtac 92 comes with a big loop. The large loop is great for those of us in places that actually have all four seasons. It allows for large gloves to fit in the loop. Now that being said, if you try to operate the action fast a lot, you’re slamming your fingers into the metal loop the rest of the year. Most people end up getting leather wraps or a paracord wrap on the loop where your hand hits. I opted for the paracord since I had a spool sitting next to me and didn’t do any fancy braids. I just wrapped the paracord around in a similar fashion to how a noose is made. It’s comfortable and works.

Ejection Port, Sight Rail, and Controls

Moving above the Levtac’s loop, you’ll find the rifle’s ejection port. While putting in all the other internal springs, I filed the inside of the opening with a jeweler file. It had a lot of sharp edges that dug at your fingers and the cartridges when loading. Just remember to go slow. You can easily take more metal off, if needed, but it’s a lot harder to add metal back.

Continuing the upward direction of talking about the rifle parts, let’s focus on the hammer and safety. The rifle comes with a hammer extension. Use your favorite thread-locking compound on this so you don’t lose it. Now, onto the safety. I’ve done a safety delete on previous ones, but decided to leave it on this rifle for the time being. A safety on a lever action is pretty asinine in my opinion. After all, you have to manually cock the rifle with the loop and the half cock hammer position exists. It’s the same idea as putting one on a single action revolver — I’m looking at you Heritage Rough Rider. With all that said, I’ll leave it for now. However, the first time it randomly slips into the safe position, it’s going the same place as the factory follower.

The rifle comes with a top Picatinny rail with a rear peep sight. The rail is perfect for a long eye relief scout scope if you want a bit of magnification or a red dot if you just want a faster aiming method. I still haven’t decided what red dot will go on the rifle. For the time being, I’ll use the peeps on it. I wish the front sight was a fiber optic one though instead of the included brass stud.

M-Lok Forend and Flash Hider

Now, onto the biggest reason to get this rifle — the included M-LOK forend. The forend allowed for the few accessories I wanted to attach to the rifle and was comfortable in the hand. The rail has M-LOK slots all around it except the top. This gives ample space and the angles needed to attach all your bits and bobs. Speaking of which, let’s talk about the ones on this rifle. At the rear of the forend on the right side is the Hoptic Lever Gun LongBow in 38/357. This gives the rifle six easy-access rounds close to the loading port. If you pop the LongBow off the rifle, you can adjust the tension to hold rounds at your desired level of retention.

The next part I bolted to the ample amount of M-LOK slots is the Magpul Hand Stop Kit. This kit provides a firm spot for your hand to lock into while shooting and loading. It’s affordable and comes in various colors for maximum customization. Lastly, I put an Arisaka 300 Series Scout Light at the front attached to a Magpul Offset Light/Optic mount since I had one sitting around.

The last part I put on the rifle was a generic 9mm A2 Birdcage flash hider. If I was in a country that allowed suppressors, this rifle would be a perfect suppressor host since it comes out of the box threaded 1/2×28.

Performance

Now, onto the rifle’s performance. With the shortened spring, the rifle currently holds nine rounds of 357 Magnum. At the start, I admittedly had a terrible time loading my large stock of jacketed soft points into the rifle’s side port. They had to be loaded like a secret handshake with force in just the right direction to not hang up. I decided to run a ton of steel snap caps through it and it’s since smoothed out some. It isn’t perfect and I certainly won’t be in a speed shooting competition with these rounds, but I’m happy with it now. I haven’t found any Jacketed Hollow Points or Hornady Lever Revolution rounds locally, but I suspect they would load a bit better. The rifle shoots well and provides the accuracy you would expect. Switching between targets is a breeze. At 100 yards, the sights are fairly accurate in their stock setting for my ammo. The rear peep is adjustable for both windage and elevation.

Conclusion

Would I recommend the Citadel Levtac 92 to a lever gun beginner who doesn’t like the idea of ripping apart a brand-new rifle? Likely not. There are smoother-running stock rifles floating around that would likely suit them better. Hell, we wrote about a bunch of them. That being said, with a little work, the Citadel or any of the Rossi imports (they go by many names) can be terrific shooters. Anyone who knows me well knows I like to tinker and build and love to problem solve. Perhaps that’s why I’ve had so many of these guns at this point. The Citadel Levtac 92 will be the last though. This one isn’t for sale.

The post Citadel Levtac 92: A Tacticool Lever Action Build appeared first on The Mag Life.

When I purchased the APX Carry, it was on sale for under $250, not including a $50 rebate from Beretta (which I’m still waiting on). The grip that came on the gun is FDE and it comes with a black mag extension that matches the black slide. So now we’re going to talk about the grip module and how to install it on your Beretta APX Carry pistol. Beretta sells multiple colors for the APX Carry including FDE, Wolf Grey, OD Green, and Black.

Removing the Trigger Control Group From the Frame

Keep in mind I’m not a Beretta hater. Sig did this right but Beretta made it as complicated as possible. Changing a P320 grip module takes about 3 minutes. The Beretta took me about an hour because a bunch of parts fell out of the trigger control group. I’m pretty sure that’s not supposed to happen, but they come out easily; so be careful. First thing, make sure the gun is unloaded. Next, remove the slide from the frame using the take-down lever.

Try and keep it level because several parts started falling out of it when I lifted mine out of the frame. I used a diagram on Beretta’s website to figure out where they went. The trigger bar, slide stop, and pin that holds them together all fell off. If they come off on you, be patient and look at the diagram to see where they go.

Removing the Mag Release

I’ll give Beretta some credit here, they made the mag release easy to take off. With a very small punch, push in on the hole on the mag release button (left side of the gun) until a plunger pops out on the other side. Then, take a larger punch and push the mag release button out from the right side of the gun. That’s it. Put the parts back in place on the new frame and push the plunger back in to hold the mag release button on. If left-handed, you can reverse them.

Installing the Trigger Control Group Into the New Frame

There are two springs in the old frame that need to go into the new one. One is a small spring on the left side of the gun for the slide release lever. Set it in the same place on the new frame. The second spring is in the right side of the gun and looks bent. It’s supposed to look this way. Carefully lift it out of the frame and place it in the new one.

You’re now ready to install the trigger control group into the new frame. If anything fell off the trigger control group, this is where you need to put it back on. Set the trigger control group into the top of the frame. It will feel like it doesn’t want to go in because the back of the trigger control group flexes. You will need to squeeze it just a little to get it started. Don’t forget about that spring loaded pin either. You will need to push it in to fit inside the frame.

Once the trigger control group is in place, you should hear a clicking sound as the pin pops back into the hole in the frame. The takedown pin (retaining pin) can now go back in the larger hole and the slide can go back on. Cycle the slide a few times and make sure everything is functioning properly. I like to use dummy rounds to make sure the gun is cycling correctly before taking it to the range.

Easy as Pie?

No, I wouldn’t call this one easy. If everything stays in the trigger control group, it’s not bad but not easy. Sig got this one right and Beretta made it harder than it should have been. But, to give them credit, most companies don’t make the frame and trigger control group separate. So, in that respect, it’s still a plus. In the end, I have a green and black gun instead of FDE and black. I think it looks better. Even if it didn’t, I wouldn’t be switching it back. The Beretta APX A1 Carry is a reliable gun at a great price point. If you like the feel of it, it’s a good deal and you won’t be disappointed.

The post Beretta APX A1 Carry: Installing a New Grip Module appeared first on The Mag Life.

I wasn’t the only one impressed: the 930 quickly became popular in three-gun competitions, which, while not in its infancy, was still very much developing in both hardware and technique. When guns get pushed in unusual ways, you find (or create) new weaknesses, and the aftermarket quickly provided upgrades for the 930 to make it even better than it already was. Having befouled mine in the same corrosive powder incident that required a full rebuild of my beloved Mossberg 500 Cruiser, some remedial work was in order before I could install any upgrades.

Takedown and Disassembly

For those unfamiliar with the takedown process, you start by unscrewing the Choate magazine extension. Two words of wisdom: if it’s too tight to back out by hand, use a strap wrench, and second, that long magazine spring is going to lunge out like an angry metal snake.

Draping a towel over the joint ain’t a bad idea. With the extension off, the plastic forend can be pulled forward and off, exposing the gas system. Gas is vented downwards through two ports in the barrel into a gas chamber surrounding the magazine tube. It then pushes back against the piston, which also slides on the mag tube, and bears on an aluminum spacer tube that fills the space between the piston and the pusher assembly.

This assembly features twin rods that protrude into the receiver and push back the slide that unlocks the bolt from the portion of the barrel extending into the aluminum receiver (mechanically the same as the action bars/pump on a Mossberg 500). A spring between the pusher and the plastic forend retainer returns the gas system components forward after firing. Unscrewing the magazine tube from the receiver will free these parts, after which the bolt and slide can be removed from the front of the receiver.

Remedial Work and Repairs

The first step in repairing my shotgun was to hone the barrel to remove the rust and as much pitting as possible. Next, I had to clean out the gas chamber using solvent and a variety of stiff brushes, including a small wire wheel on a Dremel and sandpaper as a mandrel, which proved to be the correct diameter for the gas chamber.

On the other end of the chamber is a strong, captured spring which was also badly pitted. Like all the other rusted parts of the gun, I bead-blasted it and had it reblued. Unfortunately, it’s very difficult to both compress it and align the fine threads of its retaining ring at the same time. Wanting to find a way to provide pressure straight down onto the ring, I took a dial caliper to the local O’Reilly Autoparts and measured the outside diameter of sockets until I found one barely larger, which I then ground shorter on a belt grinder using a 10-inch extension to keep from burning my fingers.

Once I had removed almost all but the solid part of the socket, I clamped it in my mill and decked the surface with a .5-inch end mill, which I then used to machine a pair of tabs to interface with retaining ring slots. Time-consuming to make, but I’ll never dread reassembling the gun again; it probably took less than 30 seconds to screw it in.   

Since the gas piston uses rings similar to an AR bolt or an automotive piston, I chose to replace it rather than refurbish it. Mossberg makes an upgraded Nickel Boron version that also appears on the 935, and there is an aftermarket stainless version that dispenses entirely with the rings, but the popularity of this upgrade may be judged by the fact that I could not locate either one in stock and for sale. Anywhere.   

Functional Upgrades

OR3Gun, having run 930s hard in competition, developed several significant gas system improvements and offers packages that tune the gun for its intended use: light competition loads, heavy field/defensive ammo (which the gun prefers from the factory), or a combination. Good luck getting in touch with them: I couldn’t find a phone number and never got a response to an email, but the parts I ordered did arrive in great time and are beautifully made.   

Most packages include the vented spacer tube (MST) that replaces the factory solid one in a variety of weights for the intended load. I chose a multi-use package, which also contains a paired set of spring plunger (CSP) and spring retainer (ASR). The plunger has a tail that fits inside the return spring instead of on top of it like the factory plunger and is intended to improve the geometry of the system and avoid scoring the inside of the recoil tube. When I removed my factory plunger, the base had been well eaten by the end of the factory spring, which may explain some issues I experienced with the recoil system. In any event, before installing a new return spring I ordered from Mossberg, I carefully ground the end of the spring flat so it would fit squarely against the base of the new plunger.

The spring retainer goes on the back end of the spring and is accessed by removing the buttstock. It’s held in place by a cross pin that drifts easily out once pressure is removed from the retainer by pushing a wooden dowel or some such down the recoil tube and against its base. The OR3Gun retainer comes in two flavors: a four-hole version, which either compresses or relaxes the spring based on which hole you select, or a field-adjustable version with two settings that can be rotated with a punch once the recoil pad is removed from the buttstock.

Also included in the package I ordered are a forend retainer (CFR) and extended bolt release (EBR). The forend retainer also comes in two flavors, one intended for field guns and another for competition guns. Be prepared, though, that it requires some modifications to truly be an upgrade.

Furniture Mods

The greatest weakness of the shotgun is capacity, and the greatest advance three gun has given us is reloading technique. My 930 is intended for defensive use, not competition, but it’s foolish not to use the best technique possible, and there’s no reason not to incorporate reasonable modifications that help good technique as long as they don’t compromise some other part of the gun’s utility. Common twin load/quad loading techniques let you stack two cartridges end-to-end in your palm and then slide your hand down the underside of the gun, feeding both into the magtube in a single stroke. The bottom corner of the 930’s forend usually creates a large shelf that keeps your hand from making that sweeping motion (note the 940 forend is completely smooth). The machined aluminum OR3Gun forend retainer extends further backwards over the receiver than the factory one, creating a ramp that you can then shape your factory forend to match. After installing the retainer, I carefully cut back my forend on a belt grinder until I had the right shape, dressed down the cut surface with 220 sandpaper backed by a file to get a good, continuous surface, and finished it with a trip-through the bead blaster.

I also modified the loading port by beveling the sides with a 60-degree mill cutter and rounding the front with a .5-inch ball end mill, then cleaned up my cuts using sandpaper backed by a round oak dowel. You can do the same work without a milling machine, either with a file or a Dremel, of which I suggest files. Aluminum is soft, and that Dremel will dig a hole in a second if your attention wanders, which it probably will.

Just having made this modification, I’ll shoot it for awhile before I decide if I want to go more radical, or whether or not I need an extended elevator, such as the Miculek extended one that avoids pinched fingers during reloads. Once I make up my mind that I’m done, I’ll swab on some aluminum black to finish it.       

Control Upgrades

The OR3Gun extended bolt release is a clever bit that serves as an overtravel stop for the factory button and does not require drilling and tapping to install. It’s held in place by a set screw installed from the side, and the wise shooter will put a drop of thread locker on the threads before installation. That’s not the only control I swapped out: while there’s nothing per se wrong with the factory curved charging handle, it’s pretty small to run in a hurry, so I upgraded to a factory Mossberg extended charging handle, which is the same one you’ll see on the 940. Like the factory one, it’s held in place with a spring detent in the bolt slide, which means you simply push it straight inwards until it clicks, and pull it straight out to remove for disassembly.

As a last touch, I replaced the extractor and gas system return springs with new ones from Mossberg, and the mag spring with an extra power Wolff one supplied by Brownell’s, which requires some fitting. Every spring becomes solid when it’s compressed far enough, so I clipped coils until the spring would allow a full load of seven shotshells in place, and for an eighth to start. It seems a bit weak to me, though, so after shooting it a bit I may put an unmodified spring in and give up one extra round for the certainty of operation.  I also used the OR3gun extended follower, which protrudes more than the factory follower to provide a tactile means of determining whether or not the tube is loaded. 

I also took the opportunity to install Holosun’s 507 red dot on the pic rail where it co-witnesses with the factory ghost ring rear. While I’m not exactly an early adopter of dots on everything, I’ve been using the 507 on a pistol for quite some time now and have been very impressed. 

The post Improving the Mossberg 930 SPX Shotgun with OR3Gun Components appeared first on The Mag Life.

1.     Wilson Combat

Wilson Combat is best known for its premium 1911 handguns and accessories. Recently, they have been moving into the CCW and rifle market with some nice-looking AR-15 rifles. I mentioned above that I used PSA as my practice build. I’ve never had any trouble with PSA uppers or lowers, but the name does correspond with cheap to most AR-15 lovers. What I like about Wilson Combat is that they offer a few choices of lower receivers, and some are very affordable. They have the name and reputation of quality firearms but still offer a budget lower/upper set. You can get a matched billet set if you want to spend more money though. I recently found a matching forged set for just $80, which I thought was a mistake by the vendor.

If you want to stay with a cheaper set but want that Wilson Combat name, the Forged Upper/Lower set is a great deal. Everything is compatible with mil-spec parts, so you can keep it all Wilson Combat or mix it up. If you plan to use all Wilson Combat branded parts, I recommend spending the extra money on a billet set.

2.     Aero Precision

This is one of my favorite AR-15 companies for building your own rifle. Most of their parts are priced reasonably, but their options make them stand out. As mentioned above, you don’t want to build the same rifle as last time. Eventually, I wanted to play with different colors and finishes on my rifles. Aero Precision offers more color varieties than most other manufacturers.

3.     Geissele Super-Duty Lower

Geissele is another popular brand for AR-15 builders. They are well known for their after-market triggers, but all their gun products are awesome. If you are doing a complete build, be aware that it’s almost impossible to find a stripped Geissele upper. Most places that carry them are always out of stock. The last time I used a Geissele lower, I matched it with a BCM upper, and it turned out nice.

If you don’t want to build the whole gun, you can purchase complete uppers from Geissele and build the lower yourself. One benefit of building a Geissele AR-15 is the value of the gun when you are finished. A factory-built AR from Geissele averages $2,000, so a custom-built one holds its resale value.

Ready to build?

There are a lot of good companies building AR-15 parts today. If you get into building your own AR, you may want to try different brands. But if you are just starting or looking for some suggestions for your next build, these three are great options. There is a big price difference between the $30 PSA lower and $150 Geissele lower, but even high-end lowers are not overpriced.

It’s much easier to buy a factory-built AR-15 from the store. But it’s not as fulfilling as shooting a rifle that you built with your own hands. The process of selecting each part and making the rifle look and feel exactly how you want is worth the effort. I will warn you again: It’s hard to build just one rifle. But there’s also nothing wrong with having more than one. Have fun with it!

The post Three AR-15 Lower Receivers Worth Checking Out appeared first on The Mag Life.

Mount Your Scope Properly

Properly mounting your rifle scope may seem a little too basic, but it’s fundamentally important. Proper leveling and alignment are obvious, but the mounting screws must be tightened according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Over- or under-tightening those screws will negatively impact the scope’s ability to hold zero and will eventually damage your optic. And even cheap scopes aren’t exactly “cheap.” A torque wrench will get you on target here.

If you aren’t sure how to do it yourself or don’t have the proper tools, many gun stores will mount the scope for you. But you’ll still want to be certain they do it correctly. Take it to someone you trust.

Select Your Distance and Your Load

The distance at which you zero your scope should account for your rifle’s purpose and what ammunition you’re using. My deer rifle, for example, is a Marlin 336 chambered in .35 Remington. I zero it at 100 yards. My hunting range and rifle choice mean I’ll rarely take a shot past that distance.

My AR-15, chambered in 5.56 NATO, is zeroed at 50 yards, which accounts for that round’s performance coupled with the rifle’s projected role. Finally, my 9mm Henry Homesteader Carbine is zeroed at 85 yards, again, accounting for that cartridge’s capabilities and the rifle’s job as I see it. But let’s keep it simple and stay at 100 yards.

You should also understand that you’re zeroing for a particular ammunition load. For my Marlin 336, I hunt with the Hornady 200-grain FTX LEVERevolution cartridge. When I zero my rifle each fall, I understand that I’m zeroing for that particular load and nothing else. Each load can and, usually, will perform at least a little differently. Even a theoretically identical load from a different manufacturer.

It boils down to bullets, powders, brass, primers, and other components. Dive into that hole if you want. I might shoot a similar group with something else, but I can’t assume so. I can only be certain by testing that other load. But I know what I hunt with, so there’s no need. The Hornady round delivers consistent performance at my chosen range, to the point that I only have to make minimal adjustments, if any at all.

That consistent performance means I know my holds out to 200 yards if I unexpectedly take such a shot. I’ve taken almost all my deer shooting unsupported, so that small margin of error works well for me.

Finally, I use the 25-yard method of zeroing at 100 yards. It makes it a little easier and probably saves me a few rounds. I know it saves me some frustration, especially with a new scope. I’ll hit that below.

Scope Adjustment and Target Selection

Before zeroing your scope, you should know the units of measurement by which it’s adjusted. Ideally, these units were part of your buying process, but maybe they weren’t. That’s alright, especially if you’re new to this. So long as you know how to use the adjustments, you’re good either way.

Scopes are adjusted one of two ways: Minutes of Angle (MOA) or Milliradians (MRAD or Mils). Most are MOA. One minute of angle equals 1 inch at 100 yards. 1 Mil equals 3.6 inches at the same distance.

Your scope is adjusted for elevation and windage at certain values. The most common are ¼ MOA, ½ MOA, 1 MOA, and .1 Mil. The differences between and merits of MOA and MRAD are yet another rabbit hole if you want to pursue it. Not being mathematically inclined, nor a precision shooter, I’m not all that interested. Your scope knobs should indicate the unit of measurement. If they don’t, your owner’s manual certainly should.

What you should know for the 100-yard zero is that 1 MOA equals 1 inch on your downrange target. If your scope adjusts at 1 MOA, then 1 click on the adjustment knob equals 1 inch on the target. A ½ MOA scope will need two clicks, while a ¼ MOA scope requires 4 clicks to move the reticle 1 inch on the target. If you choose a 50-yard zero, however, you’ll need to double the number of clicks, since the closer distance means the reticle has to move more to adjust.

Zeroing at 25 yards, which is how I start, means you quadruple the number of clicks for a 100-yard zero. I like the 25-yard zero for new scopes or newly mounted scopes because it’s easier to get my rounds on paper at that distance. And since I know the simple adjustment formula, my zero should still be fairly close once I take the target out to 100 yards. Keep in mind, however, that bullet trajectory means your elevation will almost certainly need adjustment at 100, even if your windage is spot on.

Dedicated MOA targets are easily found. They include a grid of 1-inch squares, making it easy to see how many inches you need to adjust. Knowing how many inches means you also know how many clicks on your scope’s turret dial.

If you’re using an MRAD reticle, you can use the scope itself to adjust. The reticle will be marked in Mils, allowing you to walk in your elevation and windage using those marks. If you’re using a Second Focal Plane (SFP) scope, make certain your magnification is set to maximum. SFP windage adjustment marks and bullet drop compensator measurements are only accurate at full magnification. SFP vs. FFP (First Focal Plane) is another topic into which you can delve if you choose.

Shooting Position

Now that you know how your scope works, you’re ready to zero it. The first thing you need is a firm shooting base, whether it be a bipod, tripod, rifle rest, or a sandbag of some kind. I recommend a sandbag or rifle rest. You do what works best for you. Even though I usually shoot freehand, there’s no way I can get a good zero like that. Consistency demands a solid support. I also recommend zeroing your rifle while sitting at a bench or from the prone position. These positions are stable and will help provide that consistency.

Groups are Important

A common zeroing mistake, especially for beginners, is adjusting the scope after one shot. I did this myself until someone taught me better. Adjusting after a single shot doesn’t allow for variables like improper trigger pull or flinching. You should only adjust after firing a group. Some folks shoot three-round groups and others prefer five.

I like the five-round group because it allows for a flyer, plus I acknowledge that I am not a precision shooter. In my opinion, a five-round group just gives you more data. More data is always good. Here’s the process:

• Fire five controlled, aimed shots at the bullseye. Keep the same aiming point for all five rounds, no matter where you’re hitting the target. Keeping the same aiming point validates your group. Changing the aiming point means your group is useless data-wise.
• Determine the center of your group. You can measure or estimate the center, whatever you’re comfortable with. If you have a flyer, or a shot that is clearly caused by a bad trigger pull or whatever, you can disregard it. If your group is nothing but flyers, perhaps consider evaluating your shooting technique. I get that it’s tempting to try saving ammo by adjusting after one round. But I learned that I probably used at least as much ammo trying to do it that way because my data was poor.
• Adjust your scope from the group’s center point. I like to adjust the elevation first. After dialing in the vertical axis, I then move on to windage. You can do whatever works for you, but I’ve found that trying to do both makes me think too much, and that’s never a good thing.
• Confirm your zero. Once you dial in on both axes, fire another five-round group to confirm your zero. If you’re using the 25-yard method, this isn’t necessary unless you just want to do it. The 25-yard target’s purpose is to get you close at 100 yards. I don’t shoot the confirmation group until I’m on target at 100 yards. Confirming may require another minor adjustment. You can repeat this until you’re happy with the result.
• Set your turrets back to zero. Most scopes allow you to loosen the dial and turn it back to zero. That way, if you accidentally move the dial, it’s easy to put it back where you want it. Make certain you properly loosen the dial and go slowly. If the dial clicks, you’re changing the zero. Once it’s done, tighten the dial back down.

Accuracy Matters

We all want to hit what we’re shooting at. Obviously. But accuracy is a responsibility too. Safe shooting requires accurate shooting. You’re responsible for every round that you fire, meaning that it’s on you to do everything you can to hit your target. And since we mentioned hunting, accurate shots are a big part of hunting ethically. It’s your responsibility to kill an animal as cleanly as possible. That requires accuracy.

Properly zeroing your sights, whether a rifle scope, red dot, or iron sights, helps ensure you’ll hit whatever you’re shooting at. Proper shooting fundamentals obviously play a big part too. But even fundamentally sound shooters can’t hit with improperly zeroed sights. So, take your time and do it right. You’ll be glad you did.

The post How to Zero a Scope: A Basic Guide appeared first on The Mag Life.