The Tools Needed

Mounting the optic is crucial to get the most performance out of the gun. To do so, we need a few tools. I’m sure plenty of people have mounted their optics without a problem with nothing more than an Allen key, but I find having a few tools can help immensely. Here’s what we’ll need:

• Inch Pounds Torque Wrench
• Scope Levels
• Vise
• Sturdy Bench To Work

That’s it! With that, we can become optically inclined and properly mount our optics.

A Word On Bases

There are lots and lots of different rifles with lots and lots of different bases. The most common these days is some form of rail, most likely Picatinny. A Picatinny rail is the standard if you have a flat-top AR-15. Guns like the Ruger 10/22 often come with a weaver base.

Lots of bolt-action rifles offer you the option of avoiding abase altogether and mounting rings directly to the gun. Quite a few more modern options have the scope base be a part of the rifle’s receiver. Guns like the Savage Impulse offer you a Picatinny rail that’s part of the receiver.

I prefer Picatinny rails as my base with scope rings or a one-piece mount. A Picatinny rail allows me to easily adjust the placement of the optic for proper eye relief. Rings that thread directly to the receiver remove some tolerance stacking. They can be very rigid but limit your eye relief options.

There are many bases, and each has its pros and cons. Due to the number of different base options, it’s tough to tell you how to mount yours. I suggest following the instructions and paying special attention to the torque required to attach the base to the gun. If you do not properly attach the base, you’re starting on the wrong foot. It’s the easiest step to get right, so get it right, torque it down, and when in doubt, double-check.

How To Mount a Scope

Alright, let’s get into the meat and potatoes of mounting an optic. Get your tools ready, get a comfortable working environment, get your gun, rings or mount, and optic, and let’s get ready. The first thing we are going to do is ensure your weapon is completely clear. Remove the magazine if applicable. Open the action and check the chamber visually and physically to ensure the gun is empty.

Once the gun is clear, we can start installing the optic. For safety’s sake, any work, even minor, needs a cleared gun. Don’t skip this step!

Step One – Get Setup

You’ll need a stable, sturdy working environment. A flimsy table that moves every time you adjust the gun won’t do. Set up your vise in an area you can work around and over. Attach the gun to the vice and tighten it down. It shouldn’t twist, move forward, rearward, or to the sides.

Step Two – Attach Your Rings or Mount

In my example, I’m attaching one-piece mounts to AR-type rifles. This is the simplest way to attach a magnified optic to a rifle. I’m going to tighten the mount most of the way to the gun, but I’m not torquing it down yet. I may want to adjust it in the next step. You can attach your rings the same way. Get them in position, but don’t torque them down just yet.

With the rings or mount on the gun, remove the top part of the rings and set them aside for now. Be careful not to lose any of those tiny little bolts.

Step Three – Drop The Optic Into the Rings

Place your optic inside the mount. The rings should not sit against the magnification ring or any adjustment turrets. You want a little space so you can use the turrets for adjustments. I also learned a hard lesson about backup red dots. My backup red dot is attached to my rings.

My rings were far enough from the adjustment turrets, but when I installed my mini red dot, it sat right against them. Unfortunately, I discovered this after step six, after having already tightened everything up. If you’re running a backup red dot attached to the rings, double-check that distance as well.

With rough spacing between the rings, place the tops of the rings on the mount or rings and secure them just slightly. Wait to torque the rings down. Tighten them a bit like a tire. Just incrementally tighten each one and swap from bolt to bolt, tightening it just a bit.

The scope rings should be tight enough to hold the optic still but allow you to move it back and forth manually. It should take just a little effort.

Step Four – Check the Eye Relief

Loosen the vise and pop the gun out. Turn the magnification to its highest setting. Shoulder the rifle with your head in a natural position. We are checking for eye relief. You may need to move the optic backward and forward to get it just right. We want a clear image without scope shadow.

If you adjust the optic to the point where the adjustment turrets or magnification rings are setting against the rings, we have to adjust the rings or mount forward or aft. This is a hassle, but that’s why we didn’t roque the rings down just yet. If necessary, adjust your mount or rings to allow you to establish a clear sight picture with proper eye relief. Once we have proper eye relief, the rifle returns to the vise.

Step Five – Level It Out

Place the gun back in the vise, and we will level it out. Attach a level to a solid spot on the gun. Obviously, a wide, flat surface close to the optic is preferred. As you tighten the vise, you may need to adjust the rifle to ensure it remains level.

Once the vise is tight and the gun is still level, grab your torque wrench and attach the optic mount of rings to the appropriate torque settings. These settings should be easy to find and are likely between 30 and 40-inch pounds.

This one goes on the scope itself. The turret, with the cap off, is often the best place for the second level. With the second level installed, you need to begin leveling the scope itself. You may rotate it left or right a bit, and once it’s perfectly level, we’ll need the torque wrench.

Step Six – Tighten up

While keeping the rifle and optic level, you’ll need to begin tightening down the tops of the rings. Remember to alternate as you tighten—a little for one, a little for the other, and so forth. Half turns are a conservative way to tighten each bolt. Ensure you are using the manufacturer’s recommended torque specs.

Different manufacturers have different specs. Vortex might do 1-18 inch pounds, but Warne says use 20-25 inch pounds. Either way, learn it, love it, and live it. As you tighten, keep an eye on the level and ensure it stays level. Once it’s tightened to spec, congratulations—you’re done. You just need to zero the gun and optic.

Optically Inclined

Attaching most red dots and even prism sights is easy. Just toss it on and forget about it. With variable magnified optics, it can be tricky but not overly difficult. Sadly, only Trijicon makes LPVOs with integral mounting systems. For now, if you follow the above steps, you’ll be golden.

The post The Ultimate Guide to Mounting a Rifle Scope appeared first on The Mag Life.

However, how do we know the range we plan to shoot? It’s not always so well-defined. While it’s nice to think you’ll always be shooting at 100 yards, that’s not always the case. This leaves us trying to find a zero that can work at many ranges. One of the most common methods is to use a Battle Sight Zero like the famed 50/200.

Today, I wanted to explore the famed 50/200 BZO, its pros, its cons, and why or why not it might be the best option for you and your rifle.

What’s the 50/200 Yard Zero

To answer that question, we have to define a Battle Sight Zero, aka the BZO. The military is a big believer in the BZO and defines it as:

The term battle sight zero refers to the combination of sight settings and trajectory that greatly reduces or eliminates the need for precise range estimation. It further eliminates sight adjustment, holdover, or hold-under for the most likely engagements. Battle sight zero is the default sight setting for a weapon, ammunition, and aiming device combination.

An appropriate battlesight zero allows the shooter to accurately engage targets out to a set distance without an adjusted aiming point. For aiming devices that are not designed to be adjusted in combat or do not have a bullet drop compensator, such as the M68, the selection of the appropriate battlesight zero distance is critical.

The 50/200 yard zero is designed for an AR-15 with standard .223/5.56 ammunition. It may work for other calibers and rifles, but I know it works for the AR series of rifles in 5.56. The 50/200 yard zero works with the majority of bullet weights. It was designed with the old 55-grain M193 in mind, but it works well with 62- and 75-grain projectiles as well.

The 50/200 yard zero is a 50-yard zero that postulates that a 5.56 round zeroed from AR-15 with a standard height sight of 2.6 inches will have an acceptable zero from 50 to 200 yards with the need for any adjustments. The 50/200 isn’t the only battle sight zero out there, but it’s one of the most common.

How does it work?

Whenever you shoot a gun, the earth’s gravity instantly affects the bullet’s trajectory, pulling it downward. You might not notice it, but when you fire a rifle, you’re more or less arcing it upward. The barrel is canted upward due to its sight alignment. The projectile starts moving at an upward angle to resist the effects of gravity to increase the rifle’s range. If you fired the gun in a perfectly level configuration, the bullet would hit the dirt quite quickly.

The bullet will travel upward to a peak or apogee and then begin to descend. This creates our trajectory. When you use a 50/200 yard zero, the sight line and the bullet’s path align perfectly at 50 yards. At 50 yards, the projectile isn’t above or below the reticle. If it were above or below, we’d indicate that with a + or – and a number to follow. Since it’s ‘zeroed’ at 50 yards, it’s represented by a 0.0.

How It Works In Detail

Beyond 50 yards, the projectile will either rise or fall below that 50-yard zero. This creates a path that doesn’t guarantee a perfect zero. For example, if we pull the ballistic tables of a 50/200 yard zero with 55-grain ammo, we have our 0.0 at 50 yards, and at 100 and 150 yards, we see a slight rise in the projectile because it’s still traveling along its upward arc.

At 100 yards, the projectile is approximately 1.5 inches high. At 150 yards, the projectile is approximately 2.1 inches high. When we get to 200 yards, the round does fall but still lands about 1.5 inches above your point of aim. When we reach 250 yards, we see a decline, bringing the round approximately .70 of an inch below your point of aim.

Wait, That’s Not a Zero

You’re right; it’s not a true zero when you get 200 yards. In fact, it’s technically more accurate at 250 yards. The 50/200 zero isn’t a true zero. It’s only really zeroed at 50 yards. However, the margin of error at 200 yards is fairly minimal, especially when you factor in ammunition accuracy.

The 50/200 yard zero is ‘good enough’ between 50 and 200 yards. To be honest, it’s good out to 250 yards. It’s not a perfect zero by any means, but it does work when our concern is landing accurate enough hits at a variety of standard engagement ranges.

When you think about your accuracy needs, the 50/200 yard zero is practical rather than precise.

This type of zero is referred to as a maximum point-blank range. From 50/200 yards, we will get an acceptable hit on a fairly small target. Let’s say the acceptable target size is an ISPC A-zone. The A-zone is a 6.5 x 11-inch rectangle. You can aim dead center from 50 to 200 yards and land a hit inside that box.

Why Pick the 50/200?

The Marine Corps uses a 36/300 yard zero and a 25/300 yard zero. With that in mind, you might ask why you wouldn’t want to zero with a BZO that gives you a longer effective range. You get a fairly flat zero from 50 to 200 yards, which isn’t the case with the 36/300 and 25/300. With those rounds, you get deviations over four inches between 100 and 200 yards. That’s a good bit of deviation and might be a bit much for some shooters.

The 36/300 yard zero works well with magnified optics. The 50/200 excels with red dots that allow for quick, instinctive shooting at various ranges. You might not get much of a choice. Some manuals will specifically advise you to use a certain zero over another. That will likely be your best bet, especially if the optic has a ballistic drop reticle.

The 50/200 yard zero represents a very easy and measured zero that gives you a nice flight trajectory to the target. I tend to stick with it even after my history of being in the Marine Corps and using the 36/300 for years. I find it quick, accurate, and easy to use.

What’s your preference? Your opinions? Share below!

The post The 50/200 Zero: Is It Magic? appeared first on The Mag Life.

PVC target stands can be tossed in the back of your truck, set up wherever they’re needed, and customized according to your needs. Best of all, building one is an affordable, straightforward project. We’ll walk you through the steps to build a PVC target stand. This DIY project is just a trip to the hardware store away.

What’s a PVC target stand?

PVC is a thermoplastic material known for being strong but lightweight. It’s hollow and used for things like plumbing and related construction work. It’s also great for outdoor activities like jug lines for catfish and, of course, making target stands. Part of what makes it so perfect for these projects is that it’s affordable and can last forever. The use of PVC makes them durable while remaining light and easy to move around. Plus, you can paint PVC and make your target stand look however you want. This target stand can be made according to the height you require and includes thin lengths of wood, called furring strips, for the portion that holds the targets.

What do you need to make a PVC target stand?

Odds are that you have the tools for this project, but you’ll likely need to hit your local hardware store for the rest. To build a target stand that includes a cross piece for added support and is the correct width for full-size targets, you need the following:

• (1) PVC pipe 10 feet in length with a diameter of 1.25 or 1.5 inches
• (1) PVC pipe 2 feet in length with the same diameter as the longer pipe
• (2) PVC 90-degree elbow connector
• (4) PVC Tee connector, unthreaded on all openings
• (2) PVC end cap (closed on one end, designed to fit over the open end of the pipe, not inside)
• (2) 1-inch by 2-inch by 8-foot furring strips
• (1) PVC cement (you’re fine with only cement and no primer in this case)
• Optional: Spray paint in your preferred color that’s made to adhere to plastic. Four PVC test caps if you’d like to permanently weigh the base of the stand. If you’re going to weigh down the base, you’ll need gravel, sand, or dirt to fill the pipes.

Tools required to build the PVC target stand:

• Measuring tape
• Painter’s or masking tape to more easily mark where to make cuts
• Cutting tool, which can be a Sawzall, PVC pipe cutter, or hacksaw
• Optional: Vise to secure pipe during cutting so it won’t slip

A note on spray paint: If you intend to paint your target stand, it’s a good idea to spray all the pieces before assembly. You can certainly spray paint the finished product, but it’s a bit messier and more likely to be uneven or unfinished in spots.

Step One: Measure and cut the pipe

For this particular target stand, we’ll be cutting eight 16-inch pieces.

If you’re going to add gravel or dirt for weight in the base of the stand, this is the stage where you’d stop and do that. There are several ways to go about it. You could partially assemble the base, fill it, and add end caps or test caps to seal off one end of four pipes. Some shooters prefer all the weight to be in the forward portion of the base. Others want to separate it, so there will be two weighted pipes at the rearmost portion of the base, leaving the two forward pieces empty. If you plan to use weighted pipes, it’s a good idea for one weighted section to be at the front of the stand and another for the cross-piece. If you’re truly ambitious and won’t be moving the target much, you could fill the base with cement.

There are alternatives to filling the pipes, which tend to be preferable if you’re going to move the stand around a lot. You can use just about any heavy object to weigh down the legs of the assembled stand. That could include big rocks, sandbags, or really, anything heavy enough that won’t damage the pipes. Technically, you don’t have to weigh it down at all, but your stand is far more likely to remain upright if you use something to hold down the back of the base.

Step Two: Assemble the base

For the first part of this step, you need three lengths of pipe, two 90-degree connectors, and two end caps. You’re forming the base to look like three sides of a square. Do this by gluing the two 90-degree connectors onto either end of one length of pipe. Then, glue a pipe into the open end of both connectors. This gives you your square minus the back.

The second part of this step requires two “T” connectors, two more pipes, and two end caps. Cement the “T” connectors to the open ends of your base, then cement a length of pipe into the open back side of the connector (not the top). You extended the base to make it longer, turning your three-sided square into a three-sided rectangle. Finally, cement end caps onto the open end of the pipe at the back side of the base.

Step Three: Assemble the uprights and cross-section

With your open-ended rectangular base done, it’s time to add the upright arms and a cross piece for added stability.

Glue a length of pipe into the topmost, open portion of the “T” connector on either side. Next, glue the final two “T” connectors to a single length of pipe. You’ll want to glue that pipe into the middle portion of the “T” piece, not one of the ends. This will leave you with two open ends of the “T” connector for a straight, open pass through to the upright arms (you’ll see why).

Take the cross piece and glue it onto the uprights. Leave the topmost portion of those two “T” connectors open.

Tip: If you don’t have a vehicle large enough to hold the base with the upright arms in place, don’t glue those uprights into the base. It’s possible to push the upright section into the base on-site and remove it for transportation.

Step Four: Add the furring strips

If you’re going to move the target stand around, you want to hold off on adding the furring strips until it’s ready for use. When you’re ready to use the stand and add a target, tap the furring strips into the open ends of the upright section. You can leave them at their eight-foot length for a taller frame or cut them down as needed.

Using the Stand

With the furring strips in place, you have a few options for target placement. You can staple a full-sized paper target, like an IPSC/USPA target, onto the strips. Another option would be to fasten corrugated cardboard to the furring strips and stick or staple smaller targets to that. We use furring strips instead of more PVC for the top of the frame because they’re cheap and easier to replace. When I made my first PVC target stand about 15 years ago, I used PVC for the entire thing. It took under five minutes for another shooter to obliterate the top of my frame with a shotgun. Take it from me: furring strips are cheap and easy to replace, while PVC is not nearly as cheap or simple.

There are practically endless variations to the ways you can make this target stand. Over the years, I’ve done it all, from creating a full, closed base to using PVC to extend the frame upward to a height of seven feet. This simpler target stand is the way to go for my time and money.

The post DIY PVC Target Stands: Cheap Stands for the Home Range appeared first on The Mag Life.

What is birdshot?

To be clear, birdshot is the term used to refer to a range of smaller-sized pellets used in shotshells. Birdshot sizes include No. 9, with a diameter of .08 inches per pellet; no. 6, with a diameter of 0.11 inches per pellet; and the popular No. 4, which has a diameter of 0.13 inches. How many pellets are loaded into the shotshell depends on the specific ammo, but there is a general rule of thumb.

Let’s use No. 4 as an example. A 1-ounce shotshell load of No. 4 has an average of 136 pellets, a 1.25-ounce shot usually has about 170 pellets, and a 1.375-ounce shot has about 255 pellets. That might sound fantastic. More wound cavities, right? However, the number of pellets doesn’t directly translate to wounding potential for defensive purposes.

Birdshot is specifically designed for use on birds, and if you spend time wing-shooting, you know that means nailing a good headshot for a clean kill. No. 4 birdshot can be found for ducks, pheasants, and turkeys. These are all birds with small heads and fragile skulls. If you’re bird hunting and don’t shoot correctly and accidentally impact their body and not their head, that bird just might keep flying.

Can you use birdshot for home defense?

The question about whether you can use birdshot for home defense is less “can” and more “should.” Sure, you can load your shotgun with birdshot and hope for the best. But before you decide to use birdshot, there are a few things to consider.

Shotshells have a wad that’s located behind the pellets, whether it’s birdshot or buckshot. Wads are often made of plastic, but there are also fiber and paper wads. The wad helps the pellets produce a better and more consistent pattern. If you’ve spent time running shotguns, you’ve likely also had to take time to pattern them. Not all shotguns and ammo behave the same way, and it helps a great deal if you know how your chosen shotgun and ammo combo is going to pattern at a variety of distances. And, yes, you also want to know if it patterns well at all because all shotshells are not created equal.

Now, stop and think about the size of your shotgun. The odds are good it hovers somewhere around three feet or less in length from the muzzle to the butt. This means you’re going to need to be within gun-grabbing range for a truly effective shot at an attacker.

Doesn’t birdshot penetrate less?

How much any projectile penetrates through inanimate objects depends on a lot of factors, including the specific object it’s hitting. Maybe it’ll hit a stud or some other object in the wall or door that’s hard enough to halt its progress. Maybe it’ll fly right on through a thin pressboard door or drywall. Any projectile can over-penetrate given the correct set of circumstances. As gun owners, we try to select defensive ammo that’s designed not to over-penetrate but instead slows down on impact.

Birdshot is often less prone to over-penetration than buckshot. However, it could still over-penetrate. Birdshot is made for birds and their fragile bodies, not humans. If you find yourself facing a human wearing heavy clothing or some type of body armor, your birdshot is unlikely to help you out at all.

What shotshell is good for home defense?

If you’re going to use your shotgun for home defense, get the right ammo. Well-made defensive loads are buckshot or slugs. Good examples include Hornady’s Critical Defense 12-gauge ammo, which uses 00 buckshot, and Federal Personal Defense with FliteControl Wad. An example of a self-defense shotshell load that combines projectiles is the Winchester PDX1 Defender. It contains both a 1-ounce rifled slug and three plated 00 buckshot pellets.

Before choosing a defensive load, consider the most likely range at which you’ll be using it inside your house. The length of hallways and rooms does impact ballistics for all ammo. It’s another reason you need to get a shotshell specifically made for self-defense, not bird hunting. They’re made for different targets, varying purposes, and completely different shooting distances.

Friends don’t let friends use birdshot for self-defense. Ensure you’re using the best ammo possible for the specific application, then practice with it. There’s more to home defense than simply having a gun around.

The post Birdshot: Is It Good for Home Defense? appeared first on The Mag Life.

If you’ve ran one for any extended period of time, you know a quality rifle sling makes a difference in comfort, performance, and capability. With most slings, buying cheap translates to getting cheap, and luckily, slings aren’t outrageously expensive for the most part. If price isn’t as much of an issue, why buy one particular sling over another? Better yet, let’s tackle the two most common slings: one-point and two-point. Each sling has its pros and cons, but I’m openly in the two-point sling camp. Regardless of my acknowledged personal biases, let’s dive into the finer points of single and two-point slings.

What are One-Point Slings?

The one-point or single-point sling has been around for a minute. For many veterans, this sling is a familiar platform. The single-point sling normally attaches to the rifle’s end plate and loops around the shooter’s body. This design connects to the rifle at only one point and provides a lot of movement and flexibility with the rifle—especially when wearing a plate carrier.

What are Two-Point Slings?

The two-point sling mounts to two locations on the rifle. Whereas the single point normally mounts to the end plate, the two-point normally secures at the rifle’s stock in one location and at the rifle’s forend or rail system at the other. The two-point system improves the rifle’s stability when slung compared to a single point.

The Pros and Cons of the One- and Two-Point Slings

I already touched briefly on a few of the features inherent to one-point and two-point slings. However, there’s a lot more to these slings that make one shine over another, depending on the environment, application, and the shooter’s setup. Ultimately, depending on your needs, one may be a little more suitable for your purposes than the other.

Stability – Movement and Retention

The sling’s purpose starts with retaining the long gun on your person. Whether hunting or carrying for law enforcement, military, or other defensive purposes, the sling retains the long gun and keeps it available for immediate access. However, immediate access must balance with carrying, standing, or running with that rifle. If the sling setup isn’t secure, the rifle will become uncomfortable over long periods and fling around during movements.

The single-point sling sits conveniently in front of the body with one point of attachment. Consequently, the rifle is very floppy and gets in the way if not pushed aside. For males with experience on a single-point sling, we learned early not to let the rifle hang low nor let it swing in front of us. The rifle had a convenient way of hitting certain sensitive locations if left swinging around.

The two-point sling provides greater stability for the shooter than a single-point sling — both during shooting and when slung. With two points of contact securing the rifle to the sling, users maintain better control over the slung rifle. Ideally, the sling’s securing points to the rifle should be spaced out as far as possible. For example, mounting the sling towards the muzzle end of the forend and then on the stock reduces the rifle’s “flop” when slung. This mounting style also has additional benefits that I’ll discuss later.

Shoulder Transitions

Close-Quarters Battle (CQB), room-clearing, etc, require shooters to work in dynamic and evolving environments. Shooters working in those environments often transition from their rifle on their dominant shoulder to the non-dominant side. During these transitions, the sling should not interfere. Single- and two-point slings excel in these areas if properly set up.

The single-point sling allows for a little more flexibility without adjustment when switching shoulders. A two-point sling requires the shooter to adjust its length before transitioning. However, many modern two-point slings have quick adjustment tabs that shorten or lengthen the sling in a couple of seconds or less. While an extra step compared to the single-point sling, the two-point sling has the advantage of greater adjustment and stability.

Accuracy

Does a sling really contribute to accuracy? Surprisingly, yes it does. However, not all slings work the same or have been set up correctly. When used properly, two-point slings provide excellent stability over single-point designs.

The two-point sling setup stabilizes the rifle against the shooter in a variety of shooting positions. When shouldering a rifle, the shooter normally has four points of contact: hands, cheek, and shoulder. These four contact points require the shooter to maintain them through passive and active pressure. However, a properly fitted two-point sling snugs the rifle into the shooter’s shoulder.

Furthermore, the shooter’s support elbow can adjust the sling’s tension regardless of the position. If you require a tighter, more stable platform, simply move your elbow up or down on the sling. This pulls the sling into your body and reduces felt slack. This method works great with a two-point sling but isn’t an option with single-point designs.

Is one better than the other?

Finding what sling works for you is a personal decision based on your needs and uses. However, some slings work better than others. Overall, the two-point sling is the best design for securing your rifle to you. Furthermore, it provides a stable shooting platform in virtually any shooting position. While some may disagree, this has been my experience and observations of running both slings for nearly two decades.

Earlier, I pointed out not all slings work the same nor is their construction equal. If you decide to run a two-point sling, purchase one of the many reputable ones available from companies like Blue Force Gear or Magpul. In fact, Magpul offers several sling options that work as single or two-point. A quick adjustment tab is strongly recommended for transitions and quick adjustments in the field to properly sling or stow the rifle when not in use. With a little practice, you’ll discover the two-point sling performs exceptionally well and fulfills virtually any need you can think of for a sling.

The post More is Better: 2-point vs 1-point slings appeared first on The Mag Life.

For the last 15 years and change, I have carried a firearm daily for personal and professional applications. Over the years, I have learned a lot of the dos and don’ts of concealed and open carry. As times changed, and so did my experiences, I’ve learned there’s a time and place for carrying a paddle holster. Furthermore, there are a few things to keep in mind, as well as techniques for safely and competently carrying one.

What is a Paddle Holster?

Holsters attach to the body through a large number of methods and means. Shoulder holsters loop through the arms and occasionally secure to the belt like suspenders. Inside-the-waistband (IWB) holsters clip or loop through the belt, while outside-the-waistband (OWB) holsters normally loop through the belt. However, some OWB holsters utilize a paddle-style device to secure to the body.

A paddle holster conveniently attaches a holster for OWB carry. The paddle typically attaches with several hooks that secure to the belt while the paddle’s curvature distributes the gun’s weight across the body. There’s no question about it: paddle holsters are comfortable if worn properly. Furthermore, paddle holsters afford easy on-and-off for those who need to disarm and don’t want to walk around with an empty holster. On the negative side, many paddle holsters aren’t worn properly with poor retention. Even if worn properly, a paddle holster could potentially be separated from its owner. These issues cause some immediate condemnation from those vehemently against their use.

What’s the problem with paddle holsters?

Retention is the biggest underlying issue with paddle holsters. Most paddle holsters that I’ve encountered feature some kind of retention device to secure the firearm in the holster. While other variants exist, the most common styles are the Blackhawk SERPA and Safariland ALS. While I won’t delve into the controversy surrounding the SERPA’s design in this writing, it features a push-button style retention lever, while the ALS has a “thumb-drive” style retention device.

While retention devices help secure the gun in the holster, the issue isn’t so much with the retention device as it is the paddle securing the holster to the body. With any holster, the weakest security point fails first during a disarming attempt. For example, screws securing the holster clips, loops, or paddle strip or break with enough stress. With a paddle holster, the paddle hooks defeat relatively easily compared to a belt loop design.

More often than not, paddle holsters aren’t properly adjusted or secured to a belt. Furthermore, some users open carry with a paddle holster and don’t exercise proper situational awareness. Consequently, many within the gun community argue disarming someone with a paddle holster is exceptionally easy. When compared to most other holster-to-belt retention designs, they’re unfortunately right.

But they are Useful

Paddle holsters definitely have some benefits. First, they’re comfortable. The paddle generally contours to the body and does a great job of distributing the firearm’s weight compared to single mounting points. While some may disagree, paddle holsters inherently carry more comfortably. Where holster mounting loops for a belt occasionally produce pinch points or hard edges, the paddle eliminates these with a rounded paddle resting against your body.

Somewhat ironically, the biggest complaint against paddle holsters is also a positive — how easily the holster removes and attaches. There’s no free lunch with any design choices. However, some circumstances help the benefits outweigh any drawbacks. If your activities require entering non-permissive environments, a paddle holster assists with quickly disarming to enter those environments. Furthermore, some of my work requires climbing underneath vehicles or structures. In those instances, the environment may be so tight that I need to drop my gear quickly. Paddle holsters allow for quick removal and storage, whereas traditional mounting methods require removing my belt. Call me lazy, but it’s definitely convenient in some circumstances.

Addressing the Paddle Holster’s Pitfalls

Earlier, I touched on some of the common complaints directed at paddle holsters; the biggest of them pointed at their poor retention and security between the holster and body. Unfortunately, their design doesn’t guarantee the same retention as a belt loop or slot-style holster. However, a few simple considerations and some situational awareness go a long way in improving the paddle’s biggest drawbacks.

Use a belt — and a quality one at that

Not all belts are equal. While a nice dress belt makes for a fashionable statement, appearances don’t translate to practical concealed carry. A quality belt enhances comfort, stability, and security when carrying. For example, many average consumer belts are a single piece of leather. This type of leather doesn’t have the strength, stability, or durability to carry a firearm daily.

Conversely, heavier-density leather, stiffeners between layers, and/or multiple layers of stitched and glued leather produce a durable gun belt. I purchased my first Crossbreed Crossover leather gun belt almost 10 years ago. With occasional maintenance, the belt continues to maintain its quality and durability despite daily use and abuse. The belt’s additional thickness and rigid structure also improve paddle holster carry. The paddle’s hooks remain engaged with the belt’s extra thickness while the belt is sturdy enough to pull tight without worrying about a broken fastener or buckle.

Inspection Before Carry

Before donning your concealed carry or duty loadout, you should always inspect your equipment. Screws work loose on belts and holsters. An optic’s lens and gun’s action collect lint, dirt, and grime. While just a few broad examples, inspecting your gear could save your life. For paddle holsters, this practice is especially important. Plastic and polymer stress and crack over time with use. The screws mounting the holster to the paddle can strip or work loose. Most of all, once mounted to your belt, check the paddle and holster for proper connection between them. I’ve seen some folks put the paddle portion that goes against the body between the belt and their pants. Don’t do that — the paddle goes inside the pants, not outside.

Maintain Situational Awareness

Despite taking the appropriate steps to carry a paddle holster, proper situational awareness remains critical. Burying our heads in a phone or other distractions negates any effort taken to ensure our security or that of our firearm. While concealed carry draws less attention, some of us choose to open carry. After all, this right is most certainly endowed to us by the Second Amendment. However, our rights don’t absolve us of the responsibility that exists in doing so.

When publicly carrying with a paddle holster, your attention shouldn’t be on your phone or other tasks with an exposed firearm. By no means should you be paranoid. However, blading your body from persons who could access your firearm in a paddle holster is a small step, like the ones listed above, to ensure you retain the firearm in the event of a criminal miscreant’s misdirected decision.

Paddle Holsters Have a Place and Time

There are a wide variety of concealed and open carry holsters currently available to the responsible gun owner. However, every one of those options has individual pros and cons, some more than others. Paddle holsters are no different in this aspect, except the challenges are slightly different. With proper equipment, practice, and situational awareness, you can safely carry with a paddle holster. Ultimately, this holster style may not be for everyone, but with proper education and training, it has a role in arming the responsible citizen.

The post Paddle Holsters: Do They Have a Purpose? appeared first on The Mag Life.

What’s wrong with the traditional AK piston?

I’d take an AK’s piston over a direct impingement AR any day, personally, but there are still some issues with the AK-47’s piston if you want to shoot suppressed. The main one is the lack of adjustability. If you intend to shoot suppressed, an adjustable piston will allow you to dial in the gas pressure to keep the pressure balanced.

When an AK (or any gas-operated rifle) fires, the bullet travels toward the end of the barrel. Behind it, pushing the projectile is a burning cloud of gasses. In the split second before the bullet exits the barrel, some of that gas is diverted into the gas tube, where it pushes a piston back toward the shooter.

This is the action that drives the bolt to the rear, ejects the empty brass, and compresses the spring that—when the pressure subsides—drives the bolt back into battery. It is a beautiful thing to watch in slow motion.

What happens when you add a suppressor to an AK?

The goal, obviously, is a serious reduction in the noise of the 7.62×39 report. The suppressor will capture the expanding gasses, redirect the path of those gasses, cool them dramatically by forcing them in, under, and around a lot of internal surfaces, and still allow the bullet to escape unimpeded.

But the suppressor interrupts the natural path of the gas and creates back pressure in the system. Too much gas. That gas wants to escape however it can, and some of it presses hard against the piston.

When there’s too much gas hitting the piston, it may travel faster than it should. The repetitive stress of a gun that’s over-gassed adds wear to the action. It can even break parts. Actual breakage is uncommon in the AK platform, but there’s still no reason to beat your gun up.

The AR platform addresses this problem most commonly with an adjustable gas block. These exist for the AK, too. The adjustable piston, though, is also a solid option. Make sure you get the right gas length—like this one for the AKM.

The KNS Precision Adjustable Gas Piston

The way this works—once it is in the gun—is easy to understand. The collar has grooves running perpendicular to the piston’s shaft. Gas, hitting the plunger, escapes down these grooves. Turning this collar moves it up or down, restricting or opening up the line for more gas.

As all of this is enclosed within the gas tube, you will need to open the gun up to make adjustments. After installation, take the gun for a test run.

Before you start on the build, take the gun (assuming you’re not building this from the ground up) and have an assistant shoot some video of the action moving during live fire. You may be attuned to how the rifle runs in its stock form and know how it feels.

After reassembling the gun, you’ll repeat this. Close off the piston’s vents and then do another test run. In this configuration, without a suppressor, everything should be running as it did before. If it isn’t, the video will show, and you can make adjustments accordingly.

With a suppressor attached—that’s another topic entirely—you’ll want to do another test-fire. This is a trial-and-error sort of thing. I tend to open the system up completely—taking the piston from the most closed off to the most wide open—for these tests.

The results you see will vary based on the suppressor, the length of the barrel, and the ammo you’re using, but tracking these variables and understanding the why behind it all will help you make predictions.

Installing the piston

How handy are you? Most AK pistons are riveted to the bot carrier. Rivets suck.

Look closely at the top of the bolt carrier, near the piston, and you can see where the pin has been peened over and then ground to match the profile of the bolt carrier. It will likely be a thin line that gives it away.

A center punch here makes it easier to drill out. If you try to drill out the head, your bit may skate on the steel. Not good. Punch an indentation, then drill it out (I used a 5/32 bit).

You aren’t drilling through the bolt carrier—just through the tip of the rivet’s top. Once that is free (you’ll feel the change through the drill if you are using a hand drill), stop.

Next, drift the remaining body down and out. A brass punch and a light hammer make easy work of this. This rivet isn’t holding in the actual piston—that screws into the bolt carrier. When the pin is out, you should be able to turn the piston by hand.

To add the KNS, you simply screw the new piston back in. At its base, there are two through-holes. This allows for some of the AK’s notoriously loose tolerances. Simply screw it in place, and get it far enough in to align one of those holes with the bolt carrier, then insert one of the roll pins that comes with the kit and tap it into place (a roll pin punch will make this much easier).

At this point, you should be ready to go. The roll pin will prevent the piston from spinning loose. Make sure it is deep enough in, slightly counter-sunk on both sides, and it won’t interfere with the motion.

Dry fit your parts, and make sure everything works as intended by cycling the action a few times. If something is off, you may have the wrong length. KNS makes many, as there are many gas-system lengths in AK land (and they make other useful parts, too).

Does it work?

There’s only one way to tell. Hit the range.

With the rifle back together and cycling like it should, you’ll need to test out the various piston positions to see what runs best with what you’re shooting. Keep in mind that not all 7.62×39 is the same.

I tend to use two settings more than others–the one that works best for suppressed fire and the one that allows the gun to run reliably with steel-cased import ammo. With those two variables known, this gun has taken on an entirely new level of functionality.

The post AK-47 Upgrades: Why Add an Adjustable Gas Piston to an AK-47? appeared first on The Mag Life.

So, my thought was, “Why pay several hundred dollars for a headset for my helmet when I could use a pair of Walker’s Razor Slim earmuffs?” The only problem is Walker’s doesn’t make a headset that works with the ARC rail on a helmet. I used a pair of 3M Peltor ARC adaptors and made my own using a pair of earmuffs I already have. It was relatively easy, and definitely more affordable than any other system I could have found.

Let’s break it down.

ARC Rail attachments

If you have a high-cut helmet, it’s nice to have earmuffs attached to it. This is the most comfortable and convenient method for wearing both while shooting firearms. There are several cheaper ARC rail attachments on the market (under $20), but they don’t hold up well. I would recommend using 3M Peltor ARC rail attachments for converting your existing earmuffs to work with a rail. These normally run about $45 and work with most headset wire mounts (see photo below).

Walker’s Razor Slim Electronic Earmuffs

For the price, it’s hard to beat Walker’s Razor Slim electronic earmuffs. The built-in microphones make me feel like I have superhuman hearing, and the noise cancellation works great. I’ve used them for shooting, mowing, working in the wood shop, and other high-noise applications. Another thing that stands out with these is how comfortable they are. You can wear them all day without hurting your ears, and the batteries last a while, too.

I have a full review in another article on these earmuffs and the Razor Walkie-Talkie attachment that works with them. If you haven’t used these together before, it’s worth checking out. The walkie-talkie clips to the side of the Razor earmuffs and allows multiple people to enjoy hands-free communication with one another. They don’t have the longest range compared to stand-alone radios, but they are simple to use. Perfect for hunting, range days, and other applications, they are nice because there is no wire or radio to hold on your vest.

Turning Your Walker’s Razor Earmuffs Into An ACR Mounting Headset

Unfortunately, you’ll have to cut open your Walker’s headset to get the wire out of it, so there is no going back once you start. But like I said, I had an extra $45 pair in my garage, so it was a cost-saving method for me. If you want to try this method, here’s what I did with mine:

First, pull the wire brackets out of the earmuffs. These are extendable, but once they’re extended all the way, give them a pull, and they will pop out. That’s the easy part.

The Peltor ARC adaptors have earmuff brackets already on them. I pulled these off so I could insert the metal prongs into the bracket on the Walker’s ear muffs. It’s also easier to attach the Peltor brackets to your helmet before attaching the earmuffs to the bracket. Once they are on, run the wire behind the harness on the back of the helmet to keep it out of the way. Attaching the adaptors to the ARC rail can be a little tough sometimes, but once you have it in the right place, it will stay put.

Affordable Project

If you want to add a radio, the Walker’s Razor walkie-talkie I mentioned above will still work great. It allows you to keep a helmet ready to go with hearing protection and a radio independent of a portable radio and wire. The walkie-talkie plugs into the Walker’s headset when you clip it on. You do have to put batteries in the headset and radio separately, but I’ve used both for a full range day in the past with no issues.

If you purchase everything for this project, you can make your own headset for about $130. And that includes a short-range walkie-talkie. Pick up a pair of Walker’s Razor Slim earmuffs, Razor walkie-talkie, and Peltor ARC adaptors and put them together. The radio won’t come close to competing with a higher-end portable like Motorola or some other brands, but it works great for short-range use.

The post Walker’s Ear Protection: Modifying Existing Earmuffs to Fit a Combat Helmet appeared first on The Mag Life.

I wasn’t about to pull the barrel, gas block, and tube from it. But it’s not as hard as you think, as long as you have the right tools and of course, the right parts. I won’t get into removing and installing the entire barrel in this article because we have covered that before. But we will look at the most common sizes of gas tubes, what they do, and how to find the right one for your barrel. I will also discuss installing the tube itself.

What does the gas tube do?

If you are not familiar with AR-15 rifles, they utilize a direct impingement gas system. When the bolt is closed, it locks into the barrel extension, or what is referred to as a “locked breach.” This is done by lugs on the bolt face that turn to lock in place. When the trigger is pulled, the firing pin strikes the back of the cartridge (primer) and the powder ignites. Because it’s in a confined chamber, there is only one way for the pressure to go, forcing the bullet down the barrel.

At the same time, the magazine pushes a new bullet up in front of the BCG. Because the BCG was to the rear, it compressed the buffer spring, which forces the BCG forward again. This loads the new bullet into the chamber. However, if the tube is the wrong size or installed incorrectly, there will not be enough pressure to cycle the BCG.

Common Sizes of Gas Tubes

There are four common sizes of gas tubes for the AR-15 rifle. Other sizes are out there, but today, we will focus on the most common options. They are identified by length:

• Pistol length: 10-inch barrels or less. Gas tube length: 4-inches.
• Carbine length: 10-18-inch barrels. Gas tube length: 7-inches.
• Mid-length: 14-20-inch barrels. Gas tube length: 9-inches.
• Rifle length: 20 inches and longer. Gas tube length: 12-inches.

If you are wondering why there are different lengths to begin with, it’s because the length of a barrel determines how much energy is harnessed from the propellants in the barrel. The shorter the gas port in the barrel to the chamber, the more energy will travel through it. But the shorter the barrel, the less energy it creates. In other words, if you had a 20-inch barrel with a pistol-length tube, there would be too much energy.

Installing Gas Tubes

I won’t spend a lot of time on this part, but we will do a quick rundown of the process. Unless you buy a tube already installed on a gas block, you will need both. The gas tube has one larger hole, which is the gas port, and a smaller hole that goes through both sides. This allows the pin to secure it to the gas block. Make sure the gas port on the tube is facing the opening in the gas block (see photo below). Slowly tap the pin into the gas black and through the gas tube.

I end up eyeballing mine most of the time, and I’ve never had an issue, but an alignment tool will make sure it’s in the right place. Use a little blue Lock Tite on the set screws before tightening them, but be sure not to over-tighten them. Once this is done, you can complete the installation of your handguard and muzzle device.

Ready to install your own gas tube?

Once you understand the different sizes and how they work, finding the correct tube isn’t hard. When you purchase a new barrel, it should have the gas tube profile listed on the specs. If you plan to shoot different grains of ammunition, you may also want to look for an adjustable gas block. The installation process is the same, but there is a small screw in the block that lets you adjust how much gas gets through it. Don’t be afraid to install your own barrel and gas tube. If the gun doesn’t cycle correctly, remove it and go through the process again. Hands-on learning is the best way to learn, and there are endless learning opportunities with the AR-15 rifle.

The post AR-15 Gas Tube Guide: Selecting the Right Size and Installing appeared first on The Mag Life.

Citadel Levtac 92 Internals

Springs

When my Citadel Levtac 92 arrived, I already had some items on order that I consider crucial if you want one of these guns to operate at its best. I put the Palo Verde Gunworks Rossi 92 spring kit in all my previous 92’s that I owned and the change is remarkable. This spring kit turns your rifle from okay to slicker than snot. The kit includes a main spring with adjustable nylon bushings so you can make the hammer hit exactly as needed instead of like the hammer of Thor. The kit also includes a carrier stop, friction stud, and two ejector springs of different tensions depending on the cartridge. Along with this, the kit includes loads of little tips to adjust the trigger and slick up the rest of the action. When all is said and done, the rifle feels like a completely new beast for only $29.95.

Follower

I also bought a stainless steel magazine tube follower instead of machining one. Buying one for $15.95 is cheaper than doing it myself on a manual lathe. I’ve done this in the past, but I am older and have less time these days. This is an important part to change out because the stock plastic follower is utter junk. It warps and gets screwed up by certain types of lubricants. Since it can’t be relied on, it’s gone — not even tossed in the spare parts bin. While changing this part out, I suggest removing a few inches off the follower spring. This rifle is incredibly over sprung and the shortened spring makes it easier to load. I cut around five inches from mine to get to where I wanted it. Trial and error is key here. Too short and you will have feeding issues.

Citadel Levtac 92 Accessories

Stock

Those two previous things were the biggest pure performance parts on the rifle. However, changing the stock made the rifle feel right. The Levtac’s factory stock is comfortable and works. However, it’s hollow and very light. Some people add spray foam to make it less hollow feeling while some even add weights. Instead, I opted for the Boyd’s Rossi 92 Field Design Stock in Pepper Laminate Wood, Pachmayr recoil pad, and skip line laser engraving. The combination of the wood with all the tacticool parts looks awesome, but — more importantly — adds some weight to the rear of the rifle. This provides a vastly superior balance to the rifle and the recoil pad grips the shoulder firmly with a bit longer length of pull.

The laser engraved checkering is comfortable and gives the meat of your hand something to hold onto on an otherwise slick feeling stock. I found picking a stock through Boyd’s to be an enjoyable experience. The configurator is easy to follow by selecting brand, model, and caliber and has the options displayed in a logical order. You don’t need to search through thousands of SKUs to find the one variation you’re looking for. If they end up making some laser engraved M-LOK wood rail panels, I would likely toss them on the front of the rifle to add some more wood balance in the old meets new build.

Lever Loop

The Citadel Levtac 92 comes with a big loop. The large loop is great for those of us in places that actually have all four seasons. It allows for large gloves to fit in the loop. Now that being said, if you try to operate the action fast a lot, you’re slamming your fingers into the metal loop the rest of the year. Most people end up getting leather wraps or a paracord wrap on the loop where your hand hits. I opted for the paracord since I had a spool sitting next to me and didn’t do any fancy braids. I just wrapped the paracord around in a similar fashion to how a noose is made. It’s comfortable and works.

Ejection Port, Sight Rail, and Controls

Moving above the Levtac’s loop, you’ll find the rifle’s ejection port. While putting in all the other internal springs, I filed the inside of the opening with a jeweler file. It had a lot of sharp edges that dug at your fingers and the cartridges when loading. Just remember to go slow. You can easily take more metal off, if needed, but it’s a lot harder to add metal back.

Continuing the upward direction of talking about the rifle parts, let’s focus on the hammer and safety. The rifle comes with a hammer extension. Use your favorite thread-locking compound on this so you don’t lose it. Now, onto the safety. I’ve done a safety delete on previous ones, but decided to leave it on this rifle for the time being. A safety on a lever action is pretty asinine in my opinion. After all, you have to manually cock the rifle with the loop and the half cock hammer position exists. It’s the same idea as putting one on a single action revolver — I’m looking at you Heritage Rough Rider. With all that said, I’ll leave it for now. However, the first time it randomly slips into the safe position, it’s going the same place as the factory follower.

The rifle comes with a top Picatinny rail with a rear peep sight. The rail is perfect for a long eye relief scout scope if you want a bit of magnification or a red dot if you just want a faster aiming method. I still haven’t decided what red dot will go on the rifle. For the time being, I’ll use the peeps on it. I wish the front sight was a fiber optic one though instead of the included brass stud.

M-Lok Forend and Flash Hider

Now, onto the biggest reason to get this rifle — the included M-LOK forend. The forend allowed for the few accessories I wanted to attach to the rifle and was comfortable in the hand. The rail has M-LOK slots all around it except the top. This gives ample space and the angles needed to attach all your bits and bobs. Speaking of which, let’s talk about the ones on this rifle. At the rear of the forend on the right side is the Hoptic Lever Gun LongBow in 38/357. This gives the rifle six easy-access rounds close to the loading port. If you pop the LongBow off the rifle, you can adjust the tension to hold rounds at your desired level of retention.

The next part I bolted to the ample amount of M-LOK slots is the Magpul Hand Stop Kit. This kit provides a firm spot for your hand to lock into while shooting and loading. It’s affordable and comes in various colors for maximum customization. Lastly, I put an Arisaka 300 Series Scout Light at the front attached to a Magpul Offset Light/Optic mount since I had one sitting around.

The last part I put on the rifle was a generic 9mm A2 Birdcage flash hider. If I was in a country that allowed suppressors, this rifle would be a perfect suppressor host since it comes out of the box threaded 1/2×28.

Performance

Now, onto the rifle’s performance. With the shortened spring, the rifle currently holds nine rounds of 357 Magnum. At the start, I admittedly had a terrible time loading my large stock of jacketed soft points into the rifle’s side port. They had to be loaded like a secret handshake with force in just the right direction to not hang up. I decided to run a ton of steel snap caps through it and it’s since smoothed out some. It isn’t perfect and I certainly won’t be in a speed shooting competition with these rounds, but I’m happy with it now. I haven’t found any Jacketed Hollow Points or Hornady Lever Revolution rounds locally, but I suspect they would load a bit better. The rifle shoots well and provides the accuracy you would expect. Switching between targets is a breeze. At 100 yards, the sights are fairly accurate in their stock setting for my ammo. The rear peep is adjustable for both windage and elevation.

Conclusion

Would I recommend the Citadel Levtac 92 to a lever gun beginner who doesn’t like the idea of ripping apart a brand-new rifle? Likely not. There are smoother-running stock rifles floating around that would likely suit them better. Hell, we wrote about a bunch of them. That being said, with a little work, the Citadel or any of the Rossi imports (they go by many names) can be terrific shooters. Anyone who knows me well knows I like to tinker and build and love to problem solve. Perhaps that’s why I’ve had so many of these guns at this point. The Citadel Levtac 92 will be the last though. This one isn’t for sale.

The post Citadel Levtac 92: A Tacticool Lever Action Build appeared first on The Mag Life.