{"id":413929,"date":"2023-11-16T09:00:08","date_gmt":"2023-11-16T15:00:08","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/gunmagwarehouse.com\/blog\/?p=413929"},"modified":"2024-09-30T14:06:30","modified_gmt":"2024-09-30T19:06:30","slug":"how-to-zero-a-scope-a-basic-guide","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gunmagwarehouse.com\/blog\/how-to-zero-a-scope-a-basic-guide\/","title":{"rendered":"How to Zero a Scope: A Basic Guide"},"content":{"rendered":"

Hunting season is upon us, and if you haven\u2019t zeroed your rifle yet, you better get on it. It\u2019s always a good idea to re-zero every year, and many folks will be using new rifles, new scopes, or both. With that in mind, especially with all the new gun owners out there, here\u2019s a basic guide to zeroing your scope. Be warned, zeroing uncovers several rabbit holes in which to lose yourself. You\u2019re free to do that, but this article just hits the basics. We will, however, point you toward those deeper concepts if you\u2019re so inclined.<\/p>\n

\"zeroing
Proper zeroing is crucial to accurate shooting. (Mike Searson Photo)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Mount Your Scope Properly<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Properly mounting your rifle scope<\/a> may seem a little too basic, but it\u2019s fundamentally important. Proper leveling and alignment are obvious, but the mounting screws must be tightened according to the manufacturer\u2019s instructions. Over- or under-tightening those screws will negatively impact the scope\u2019s ability to hold zero and will eventually damage your optic. And even cheap scopes aren\u2019t exactly \u201ccheap.\u201d A torque wrench will get you on target here.<\/p>\n

If you aren\u2019t sure how to do it yourself or don\u2019t have the proper tools, many gun stores will mount the scope for you. But you\u2019ll still want to be certain they do it correctly. Take it to someone you trust.<\/p>\n

Select Your Distance and Your Load<\/strong><\/h2>\n

The distance at which you zero your scope should account for your rifle\u2019s purpose and what ammunition you\u2019re using. My deer rifle, for example, is a Marlin 336 chambered in .35 Remington. I zero it at 100 yards. My hunting range and rifle choice mean I\u2019ll rarely take a shot past that distance.<\/p>\n

My AR-15, chambered in 5.56 NATO, is zeroed at 50 yards, which accounts for that round\u2019s performance coupled with the rifle\u2019s projected role. Finally, my 9mm Henry Homesteader Carbine is zeroed at 85 yards, again, accounting for that cartridge\u2019s capabilities and the rifle\u2019s job as I see it. But let\u2019s keep it simple and stay at 100 yards.<\/p>\n

\".25
This Vortex Strike Eagle<\/a> adjusts in 1\/4 MOA increments. (Author’s Photo)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

You should also understand that you\u2019re zeroing for a particular ammunition load. For my Marlin 336, I hunt with the Hornady 200-grain FTX LEVERevolution cartridge<\/a>. When I zero my rifle each fall, I understand that I\u2019m zeroing for that particular load and nothing else. Each load can and, usually, will perform at least a little differently. Even a theoretically identical load from a different manufacturer.<\/p>\n

It boils down to bullets, powders, brass, primers, and other components. Dive into that hole if you want. I might shoot a similar group with something else, but I can\u2019t assume so. I can only be certain by testing that other load. But I know what I hunt with, so there\u2019s no need. The Hornady round delivers consistent performance at my chosen range, to the point that I only have to make minimal adjustments, if any at all.<\/p>\n

That consistent performance means I know my holds out to 200 yards if I unexpectedly take such a shot. I\u2019ve taken almost all my deer shooting unsupported, so that small margin of error works well for me.<\/p>\n

Finally, I use the 25-yard method of zeroing at 100 yards. It makes it a little easier and probably saves me a few rounds. I know it saves me some frustration, especially with a new scope. I\u2019ll hit that below.<\/p>\n

Scope Adjustment and Target Selection<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Before zeroing your scope, you should know the units of measurement by which it\u2019s adjusted. Ideally, these units were part of your buying process, but maybe they weren\u2019t. That\u2019s alright, especially if you\u2019re new to this. So long as you know how to use the adjustments, you\u2019re good either way.<\/p>\n

Scopes are adjusted one of two ways: Minutes of Angle (MOA) or Milliradians (MRAD or Mils). Most are MOA. One minute of angle equals 1 inch at 100 yards. 1 Mil equals 3.6 inches at the same distance.<\/p>\n

\"MRAD
This MRAD ZeroTech scope adjusts in .1 Mil increments. (Author’s Photo)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Your scope is adjusted for elevation and windage at certain values. The most common are \u00bc MOA, \u00bd MOA, 1 MOA, and .1 Mil. The differences between and merits of MOA and MRAD are yet another rabbit hole if you want to pursue it. Not being mathematically inclined, nor a precision shooter, I\u2019m not all that interested. Your scope knobs should indicate the unit of measurement. If they don\u2019t, your owner\u2019s manual certainly should.<\/p>\n

What you should know for the 100-yard zero is that 1 MOA equals 1 inch on your downrange target. If your scope adjusts at 1 MOA, then 1 click on the adjustment knob equals 1 inch on the target. A \u00bd MOA scope will need two clicks, while a \u00bc MOA scope requires 4 clicks to move the reticle 1 inch on the target. If you choose a 50-yard zero, however, you\u2019ll need to double the number of clicks, since the closer distance means the reticle has to move more to adjust.<\/p>\n

Zeroing at 25 yards, which is how I start, means you quadruple the number of clicks for a 100-yard zero. I like the 25-yard zero for new scopes or newly mounted scopes because it\u2019s easier to get my rounds on paper at that distance. And since I know the simple adjustment formula, my zero should still be fairly close once I take the target out to 100 yards. Keep in mind, however, that bullet trajectory means your elevation will almost certainly need adjustment at 100, even if your windage is spot on.<\/p>\n

Dedicated MOA targets<\/a> are easily found. They include a grid of 1-inch squares, making it easy to see how many inches you need to adjust. Knowing how many inches means you also know how many clicks on your scope\u2019s turret dial.<\/p>\n

\"MOA
MOA rifle targets are easy to find. Note the inch square grids.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

If you\u2019re using an MRAD reticle, you can use the scope itself to adjust. The reticle will be marked in Mils, allowing you to walk in your elevation and windage using those marks. If you\u2019re using a Second Focal Plane (SFP) scope, make certain your magnification is set to maximum. SFP windage adjustment marks and bullet drop compensator measurements are only accurate at full magnification. SFP vs. FFP (First Focal Plane) is another topic into which you can delve if you choose.<\/p>\n

Shooting Position<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Now that you know how your scope works, you\u2019re ready to zero it. The first thing you need is a firm shooting base, whether it be a bipod, tripod, rifle rest, or a sandbag of some kind. I recommend a sandbag or rifle rest. You do what works best for you. Even though I usually shoot freehand, there\u2019s no way I can get a good zero like that. Consistency demands a solid support. I also recommend zeroing your rifle while sitting at a bench or from the prone position. These positions are stable and will help provide that consistency.<\/p>\n

Groups are Important<\/strong><\/h2>\n

A common zeroing mistake, especially for beginners, is adjusting the scope after one shot. I did this myself until someone taught me better. Adjusting after a single shot doesn\u2019t allow for variables like improper trigger pull or flinching. You should only adjust after firing a group. Some folks shoot three-round groups and others prefer five.<\/p>\n

I like the five-round group because it allows for a flyer, plus I acknowledge that I am not a precision shooter. In my opinion, a five-round group just gives you more data. More data is always good. Here\u2019s the process:<\/p>\n

    \n
  • Fire five controlled, aimed shots at the bullseye. Keep the same aiming point for all five rounds, no matter where you\u2019re hitting the target. Keeping the same aiming point validates your group. Changing the aiming point means your group is useless data-wise.<\/li>\n
  • Determine the center of your group. You can measure or estimate the center, whatever you\u2019re comfortable with. If you have a flyer, or a shot that is clearly caused by a bad trigger pull or whatever, you can disregard it. If your group is nothing but flyers, perhaps consider evaluating your shooting technique. I get that it\u2019s tempting to try saving ammo by adjusting after one round. But I learned that I probably used at least as much ammo trying to do it that way because my data was poor.<\/li>\n
  • Adjust your scope from the group\u2019s center point. I like to adjust the elevation first. After dialing in the vertical axis, I then move on to windage. You can do whatever works for you, but I\u2019ve found that trying to do both makes me think too much, and that\u2019s never a good thing.<\/li>\n
  • Confirm your zero. Once you dial in on both axes, fire another five-round group to confirm your zero. If you\u2019re using the 25-yard method, this isn\u2019t necessary unless you just want to do it. The 25-yard target\u2019s purpose is to get you close at 100 yards. I don\u2019t shoot the confirmation group until I\u2019m on target at 100 yards. Confirming may require another minor adjustment. You can repeat this until you\u2019re happy with the result.<\/li>\n
  • Set your turrets back to zero. Most scopes allow you to loosen the dial and turn it back to zero. That way, if you accidentally move the dial, it\u2019s easy to put it back where you want it. Make certain you properly loosen the dial and go slowly. If the dial clicks, you\u2019re changing the zero. Once it\u2019s done, tighten the dial back down.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
    \"Prone
    The prone shooting position is very solid. (Jake Bush Photo)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

    Accuracy Matters<\/strong><\/h2>\n

    We all want to hit what we\u2019re shooting at. Obviously. But accuracy is a responsibility too. Safe shooting requires accurate shooting. You\u2019re responsible for every round that you fire, meaning that it\u2019s on you to do everything you can to hit your target. And since we mentioned hunting, accurate shots are a big part of hunting ethically. It\u2019s your responsibility to kill an animal as cleanly as possible. That requires accuracy.<\/p>\n

    Properly zeroing your sights, whether a rifle scope, red dot, or iron sights, helps ensure you\u2019ll hit whatever you\u2019re shooting at. Proper shooting fundamentals obviously play a big part too. But even fundamentally sound shooters can\u2019t hit with improperly zeroed sights. So, take your time and do it right. You\u2019ll be glad you did.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    It\u2019s always a good idea to re-zero every year, and many folks will be using new rifles, new scopes, or both. With that in mind, especially with all the new gun owners out there, here\u2019s a basic guide to zeroing your scope.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":42,"featured_media":413931,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[2616],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-413929","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-gun-builds-and-how-tos"],"small_media_thumbnail":"https:\/\/gunmagwarehouse.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/bench-shooting-position-300x225.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/gunmagwarehouse.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/413929","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/gunmagwarehouse.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/gunmagwarehouse.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gunmagwarehouse.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/42"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gunmagwarehouse.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=413929"}],"version-history":[{"count":11,"href":"https:\/\/gunmagwarehouse.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/413929\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":440200,"href":"https:\/\/gunmagwarehouse.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/413929\/revisions\/440200"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gunmagwarehouse.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/413931"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/gunmagwarehouse.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=413929"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gunmagwarehouse.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=413929"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/gunmagwarehouse.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=413929"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}