Whether you’re cleaning Glock, Sig, Springfield Armory, or Smith & Wesson; most of these striker-fired pistols can be cleaned in a similar way. A few might have nuances peculiar to their brand, but generally, they’re mostly the same.

How often do you clean a striker-fired pistol?

A majority of shooters will probably tell you to clean your firearms after each range session. That’s probably good, solid advice. You really can’t go wrong cleaning that often.

I have a certain friend who works at Sig Sauer. He basically shoots firearms for a living, which is to say, he shoots a whole lot! Let’s put it this way — he shoots so much that he gets sick of it, and it becomes a drudgery. Yes, it’s possible to shoot that much because I’ve been there myself. As a former member of a tactical unit, there were times when we shot so many rounds, day after day, that shooting lost its fun and became monotonous. I never hated it, mind you, but it got a little dull at times.

So, when I asked my friend how often he recommends cleaning firearms, he said, “I clean mine about every five to six thousand rounds.” I really liked his answer! It let me off the hook from cleaning my guns so often! Am I realistically going to fire mine that much between cleanings? Probably not. For my defensive carry pistols, I’ll especially clean them more frequently.

Steps to Cleaning a Striker-fired Pistol

Unload It!!!

Seriously, make certain the firearm is unloaded. Some striker-fired pistols, such as the Glock, must have their trigger pulled to field strip them. Most negligent discharges occur because the user failed to clear the chamber before pulling the trigger to field strip the pistol. Follow these steps to ensure safe handling:

• Eject the magazine
• Empty the chamber
• Get all live ammo away from your cleaning area

Once a bullet is fired, it’s like toothpaste — you can’t put it back into the tube.

A Word About Spray Cleaners

I love, love, love gun cleaning sprays!! They get into areas that are so hard to otherwise reach. You can hit entire components of the pistol. For example, cleaning the barrel is so fast and easy. I spray the entire thing down, both inside and out, until it’s dripping with cleaner. Wipe down the outside and then begin on the inside.

Although it’s for another article, I’ll mention that there is nothing like spray cleaner to clean out the gas key and gas system of an AR-15. The stuff is pure, magical genius!

A word of caution on spray cleaners though — While spray cleaners are great tools, be sure the spray you’re using is safe for polymer handguns. Some sprays will destroy a polymer frame!

Barrel Cleaning

I run a patch wet with solvent down the barrel. If I’m in a real hurry, I’ll spray some gun cleaner down the barrel. My next step is to scrub the barrel with a brush. For striker-fired pistols, I normally use the nylon cleaning brush that comes in the Glock cleaning kit. It’s super simple and works fine. I scrub the barrel a couple dozen times with the brush. Note: always insert the brush from the breech, not the muzzle, end. This preserves the rifling at the muzzle and the barrel’s crown, which helps keep the pistol accurate.

After that, I do another wet patch (or spray more gun cleaner down the barrel). Finally, I run several dry patches down the barrel until they come out clean. Also, don’t forget to wipe down the outside of the barrel and the lock geometry that’s underneath. Spray cleaner is great for this and makes quick work of the gunk.

My striker-fired pistols aren’t sniper weapons, so I don’t become overly obsessed with getting every last molecule of foreign material out of the barrel. Understand, my barrels get cleaned, but I don’t waste a ton of time on them.

Frame and Guide Rod Cleaning

I take an old toothbrush (they work great) and vigorously scrub the slide’s breech face (where the firing pin protrudes from). I usually wipe it down with some solvent to loosen up any gunk before brushing it. Be sure not to get any lube into the firing pin channel.

After that, I scrub out the slide’s rail cutouts to make sure there’s nothing in them. I use either a solvent or spray some gun cleaner on them. I’ll also clean the area of the slide where the barrel fits into and rides.

I use the toothbrush to scrub each of the frame rails that the slide rides on, as well as the disconnect on the frame. Anything that looks dirty gets wiped down and cleaned. It’s good to use the toothbrush on the frame itself and hit any areas where fouling has gathered. If there’s a lot of fouling, go ahead and wet a small rag or patch with solvent and clean the affected areas.

I’ll also take the recoil spring and its guide rod and give it a good wipe down and inspection. Make sure it’s free of fouling and debris.

Lubrication – Less is More

AR-15s like to run “wet”, which is to say, very heavily lubed. Striker-fired pistols, on the other hand, run better without a ton of lubrication. In this case, less is more. Over-lubrication tends to attract dirt and gunk in pistols.

Lubrication goes on each of the four rails on the pistol’s frame. This is the two forward locking block rails as well as the rear slide rails. Another drop goes onto the locking block itself. The disconnector also gets a small drop of lube. Glock recommends one drop of oil for each slide rail. They specify the rear/base of the connector (at the rear of the frame) receives a drop of oil.

The barrel receives a drop on the top front. Smear it around 360 degrees so the entire barrel is externally lubed. A tiny amount of lube can go underneath the feed ramp (not on it), which is smeared around with the finger. Some can also be smeared under the barrel’s locking geometry. Basically, a little lube wherever you see bare metal on the barrel. Bare metal means it contacts other metals and causes wear.

I also put a drop of lube onto the inside top of the slide where the top of the barrel contacts, as well as the round portion at the end of the slide where the barrel fits through. Again, any metal-on-metal contact points where you see wear. There’s no need to go overboard; a little lube goes a long way. DO NOT put any lubricant into the striker channel because it will just gum up the works and create functioning problems.

Does the type of lubricant matter?

As long as it’s meant for firearms, it’s not too crucial. Don’t use WD-40. It gums things up in a terrible way. However, there are tons of lubes on the market these days. I like Slip 2000, Nano Oil, FP-10, and a few others. Most of them seem to perform similarly.

Inspection and Reassembly of Striker-fired Pistols

Inspect all the parts to make sure everything looks normal. Inspect the barrel to make certain there are no bulges or cracks. Look down the barrel and ensure it’s clear. Check the extractor for any kind of chips and ensure there is no debris underneath it. Also, inspect the ejector to make sure it’s not chipped or cracked. The slide stop should move freely and snap down when you lift it up.

Once all the components are clean and lubricated appropriately, reassemble the pistol. Do a function check by racking the slide and pulling the trigger with an empty pistol. You should hear a click. Test any external safeties that might be on your pistol. At this point, I wipe off any excess lubrication that might be on the outside of the pistol, as well as any dirt.

Time Involved

For me, it takes as much time to gather my cleaners and tools as it does to actually clean a striker-fired pistol. They all field strip very easily and quickly. In a matter of a few seconds, I can have any of them field stripped. With the advent of spray cleaners, it makes the cleaning process even faster. I can strip, clean, and reassemble a striker-fired pistol in under ten minutes.

Final Thoughts on Maintaining Striker-Fired Pistols

Cleaning a striker-fired pistol is not too much different from cleaning most other handguns. Actually, they are a little simpler than some other designs. A cleaning kit need only contain a few basic items. There’s no need to assemble an elaborate, expensive cleaning kit (unless you want to).

Follow the basic steps above, and you won’t go wrong. The more often you practice these steps, the easier it becomes. Have fun!

The post Beginner’s Guide to Cleaning and Maintaining a Striker-fired Handgun appeared first on The Mag Life.

When someone tells me I don’t need to oil guns, I ask them if they ever put oil in their car. Or change the oil after that. Anything with metal rubbing against metal should have lubricant applied to it. I won’t win that argument with some, but others like to keep their expensive firearms clean and well-oiled. For those fanatical gun oilers out there, you may be wondering if it matters what type of oil you use on a gun.

You should also understand that cleaning a gun and lubricating it are two separate things. Yes, oil is used after cleaning. But you do not have to clean a gun before you lubricate it. I often add some oil to my AR-15 even though it has not been cleaned. So, let’s talk about oil.

What is the purpose of oil?

To understand why a gun needs oil, you need to understand what oil does. As I mentioned above, when metal rubs against metal it needs lubrication. This is because friction is created when two metals are moving in different directions. This could be the cylinder of a car, the roller on your garage door, or the many moving pieces of your firearm.

Oil will help protect a gun from rust, which is important but that’s not the reason it needs oil when you’re using it. Without oil, the moving parts on your gun will not slide properly, they heat up faster, and start to wear down. Quality, type, and level of craftsmanship all play a role in how well a machine holds up. But they all need oil regardless.

I won’t get into the specific AK-47 debate today, but the point is, any “machine” needs to be lubricated. Just because a gun can keep firing does not mean it shouldn’t lubricate it. Keeping your firearm oiled will prolong the wear to the metal and increase reliability. But what type of oil works best?

What type of oil should you use?

This question is a little more complicated. In general, oil is oil so any kind should work, right? The answer is, kind of. Is any oil better than no oil, yes. But the temperature and type of gun you are using cab make a big difference. I mentioned before, AK-47’s work well with grease. The tolerances on AK-47 rifles are loose, which is why they can stay shooting even when they are dirty.

But metal still touches metal, and those parts should have some type of lubrication. One important thing to pay attention to is the weight (thickness) of the oil. Some gun oils are so thin, the oil burns off quickly and doesn’t maintain lubrication for the gun while it is being fired. In the summer, oil can become a little thinner due to the heat.  Conversely as it gets colder, the oil can thicken up.

What are some good brands?

If you are not sure what type of gun oil you want to use, try a few different brands. If you ask the “experts”, they will all give you different answers. Some people use CLP for cleaning and lubricating. CLP works great, and is one of the best multi-purpose cleaners/lubricators. I find my guns start to dry out faster with CLP than it does with heavier oils, but it’s still a great lubricant.

Wilson Combat makes an oil called Ultima-Lube. They offer several different thicknesses for some of the reasons I mentioned above. I like the Ultra-Lube II for handguns, especially 1911 pistols because it’s on the thicker side and makes the slide function like butter. It’s ok to try a few different brands and types of oil on your firearms. See which ones you like and go with that.

After shooting, I always add a little more before putting the gun away. Even if I’m not going to clean it, oil is needed. If you are not sure where to start, here are some good brands of gun oil.

Gun oil suggestions

• Shooters Choice Synthetic All-Weather
• Break Free or Battel Born CLP
• Wilson Combat Ultima-Lube (universal)
• Bore Tech Friction Guard XP
• Battleborn Lubricant and Preservative (works well for rust on the outside of the gun)
• Synthetic SAE30 motor oil

Just make sure you oil the gun

During my first armorer’s class, the master armorer told us to never use CLP because it had cleaning agents in it that was not good to leave on your gun. The next armorer’s class I attended, the instructor said CLP was his favorite gun cleaner and lubricator. A gunsmith told me motor oil is what he always uses on the inside of his firearms.

A local gun manufacturer told me they only recommend oil made for guns. The best advice I was given came from a WWII vet that said it really didn’t matter what brand you use, just make sure you clean and oil your gun. There are cheap and expensive oils on the market. Many of them are too thin for me, but that’s just my preference.

Try a few brands out and decide for yourself which oil you want to use. Make sure you do not over-oil your gun as this can also cause reliability issues. Look up the manufacturer’s recommendations for the type of gun you have. Some need more oil than others. I add more oil to my AR-15 than I do my AK-47. Guns are expensive and the last thing you want to do is wear it out from shooting it dry all the time. Keep it lubed and keep it running.

The post Gun Oil: Does It Matter What Kind You Use? appeared first on The Mag Life.

Different Ways to Conduct Preventive Maintenance

There are two ways to look at conducting preventative maintenance. One is by doing annual inspections and checks. The other is by round count. The military, Army specifically, does annual inspections and gauging when it comes to the M4 platform. Every year armorers/small arms repairers visit each unit and inspect their weapons for worn or damaged parts.

On the consumer/civilian side, many conduct preventative maintenance according to round count due to not firing their firearm on such a routine basis as the military does. Long days at the range are much more sporadic on the civilian side, thus jotting down round counts and inspecting parts according to those numbers is much easier to track.

Remember, the rule of thumb when it comes to maintaining anything is that you want to replace things before they cause malfunction. You are maintaining the gun.

Replacing the Extractor Spring Assembly

The extractor spring is best replaced as an entire assembly. Depending on your firearm there will be a spring, a buffer inside that spring, and maybe an O ring around that assembly — again, that depends on the firearm. Replace that entire assembly when it is time to replace the extractor spring.

Why?

There are two parts of the extractor that are essential for proper extraction. One is the sharp lip on the end of the extractor that grabs the case to pull it out of the chamber. The second is the spring that pushes that extractor out far enough to wrap around the case. Many times if the extractor spring assembly is worn down there will be a failure to extract.

When?

You may notice the malfunctions before you remember to replace the spring. However, 3,000 rounds are a general rule of thumb when it comes to this part. If you want to inspect the part and not worry about the round count, if you notice that the spring is now bent or very compressed, or if you take a punch to the extractor and notice little spring tension, it is time to replace the assembly.

How?

To reach the extractor spring the extractor must be removed. Apply pressure to where the spring is under the extractor, then using a small punch push the extractor pin out.

The extractor has a small round housing for the extractor spring which also has a lip on it. Using small pliers and without smushing the spring, twist the spring into the housing, starting with the end of the spring, just like you would do when trying to twist any coil onto something. After it is started you can then apply a small amount of pressure to the top of the spring until you hear it click in. Ensure that it is fully seated by giving a very gentle tug. Don’t forget to place your O-ring around the spring if your specific extractor needs it.

Install the extractor the same way that it was removed.

Replacing Disconnect Springs

This part will depend on the type of trigger that you have in your AR. If it is a duty-type trigger such as a M4/M16 type trigger there will be a small spring located under the disconnector which allows the disconnect to either lock or unlock from the hammer sear.

If you are running an aftermarket trigger such as a higher-end single or two-stage trigger, the warranty will most likely say not to replace or attempt to repair any parts within that trigger, thus, this section will not apply to you.

Why?

With older M16 platform-type guns, many are seeing malfunctions in the gun due to worn disconnect springs. The most prevalent malfunction is firearms firing two rounds back to back. This is also called “hammer follow” in which the hammer doesn’t lock back to the disconnect after a round is fired and the gun cycles.

When?

Disconnect springs can be replaced every 3-5,000 rounds. However, if wear is noticed on the disconnect or sear itself, go ahead and replace the parts and springs showing wear. Obviously, if malfunctions occur you will want to replace the springs then. Start small, replace the springs first, then move to other parts.

How?

Disconnect springs are captured by a housing in the trigger with a ridge on it. The springs are also cone-shaped, meaning the bottom of the spring is larger than the top. Place the larger part of the spring (the bottom) into the house by twisting to the right as the spring will now catch the small ridge on the housing. You don’t want to smush the spring into the housing, as this will damage the spring.

Replacing the Selector Spring

The selector spring is one of the easier parts to inspect and replace, but often gets forgotten about. This spring is located under the pistol grip and is used to push a selector detent into the selector allowing movement and locking when moving the selector from safe to semi. Thus, selector spring.

Why?

A broken or bent selector spring can cause not only a difficult-to-move selector but total immobility of the selector. As you know, this is really dangerous if in a defensive scenario. No ability to move the selector means no ability to fire the gun. This has been seen before. More often though, the selector is either just very badly rusted or bent.

When?

This check is done annually in the Army. It is such an easy check I would recommend doing it if you start to feel the selector has a sticky feeling or when you are field stripping your firearm to clean it.

How?

To reach the selector spring you must first remove the pistol grip. This is done with either a long Allen wrench or screwdriver depending on your pistol grip. It is really easy to bend the selector spring as you are both removing and installing the pistol grip, so ensure that the grip comes straight off and is put straight back on. I like to push down on the pistol grip until the grip screw is entirely loosened and able to be removed. Once the grip is off you will see the selector spring and under that, the selector detent. The lower receiver may need a couple of taps to remove the detent from it. Be careful not to lose it.

If the selector spring is bent, stretched, or really rusted, go ahead and replace it. Don’t be afraid to add some lube or grease such as LSA-T on the selector spring and detent. It helps with the movement of the selector and protection of the spring.

To reinstall, put the pointy end of the detent down first into the receiver. Then place the spring back into the pistol grip (after cleaning the inside of the spring hole of the grip as well) and press straight down into the selector spring hole into the receiver. Do not bend the selector spring that you just replaced. Keep pressing down until the grip screw is entirely tightened down.

Replacing the Ejector Spring

The ejector spring is located under the ejector on the bolt and is there to provide enough tension to push the casing out of the receiver as the gun cycles. A damaged ejector spring can cause stovepipes and failures to eject.

Why?

While ejector springs are fully enclosed inside the bolt, things can still happen to it. A worn-down ejector spring can cause failures to eject which often are misdiagnosed as other malfunctions. There have been instances of these ejector springs even being broken in half and only found after the gun experienced malfunctions.

When?

There are two main ways to know when it may be time to replace the ejector spring. One, the ejector should have a good amount of tension. If it doesn’t, the spring is probably worn down. You shouldn’t be able to easily push down on it with your finger and you should feel tension and resistance when pushing on it with a punch. Two, if the ejector is sitting lower than highest wall of the bolt, there is probably a problem with the spring as well.

If you are replacing the entire bolt assembly, the ejector and ejector spring should also be replaced.

How?

The removal and installation of the ejector is a little bit of a harder repair due to having to apply pressure to the ejector to line up the pin. Below is a video on how you can do this without any special tools except a small punch, brass hammer, and bench block.

If you are still having a hard time, there are special ejector removal tools on the market.

The post AR-15 Springs That You May Forget to Replace appeared first on The Mag Life.

What should we do if we notice one of our favorite shooting irons has developed some rust? I mean, aside from a high-pitched shriek of exasperation and dismay. Seeing one of our beloved guns marred by rust is enough to bring a tear to a glass eye!

Let’s take a look at some methods that might be of help to shooters.

Enemies Of Firearms

Perhaps you’ve heard of the tongue-in-cheek quip that firearms have only two enemies: rust and politicians. Despite the comical nature of the statement, there’s some truth in it.

Caution!

Although it seems like a no-brainer, I’ll say it. Make 100% certain your firearm is unloaded before cleaning or removing rust. Field stripping it is not a bad idea either because it makes the firearm easier to handle and further ensures there will be no negligent discharge. Most negligent discharges occur during cleaning or working on firearms.

What Is Rust?

Rust is a form of iron oxide that forms from a reaction between iron and oxygen when it comes into contact with water. Moisture in the air works as an accelerant for causing rust on metal surfaces.

An Ounce of Prevention

In the case of firearms, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. No one wants to take out their beloved rifle, pistol, or shotgun to find that it has begun developing the dreaded rust. Unfortunately, in the real world, it does happen. Perhaps we’ve had the gun out in the rain and didn’t have time to wipe it down with oil or clean it before we put it away. Or else we simply forgot to. Storing firearms in cases with cloth linings also seems to provide a perfect environment to promote rust.

Cleaning

Regular cleaning helps to get rid of corrosive materials that might settle inside your firearm. There are plenty of solvents on the market to choose from, and most will get the job done. Personally, I like spray solvents (some aerosol or in a spray bottle) because they really get into the nooks and crannies of firearms that are otherwise hard to reach. Some clean, while others clean and lubricate at the same time. I like solvents that simply clean, preferring to lubricate as a separate step after cleaning is complete.

How often should we clean firearms? Opinions vary. A good friend of mine, who works for Sig, cleans his pistols and other firearms every 5,000 to 6,000 rounds. At first, I thought that seemed extreme, but it’s working very well for him, and believe me, he shoots a lot and is extremely experienced and knowledgeable. You might not choose to clean that infrequently, but I think it goes to show that firearms are often more durable than many people give them credit for.

Lubrication

After cleaning, it’s time to lubricate. Lubricants keep water from affecting your firearm’s metal, both inside and out. There are tons of lubricants on the market today, so you have plenty of choices. Just don’t use WD-40 because it tends to gum things up in the long run. Also, over-lubing the inside is not a good idea because sometimes, less is more. Most modern pistols only require a few drops of lube at key points. Too much lube can gum up the works.

Many firearms these days sport protective finishes that work very effectively. With most of my pistols, I have zero concerns about rust developing on their slide or elsewhere. However, on firearms with standard blued finishes, rust is always a sinister specter, lurking around every corner, just waiting to move in and spoil everyone’s fun. I have a few firearms with blued finishes, and I often give them a wipe-down with gun oil to stave off rust. Even so, over the years when these guns were sitting without my attention, rust managed to move in and claim a foothold, much to my consternation.

If I’m storing a firearm long-term, I’ll go rather heavy on the wipe-down on the outside of the gun, reasoning that more is better and will last longer.

If I get one of my blued firearms out and touch the metal, I wipe it down with oil because the residue from touching the blued steel can lead to rust.

Storage

For my rifles, I don’t keep them stored in cases because I’ve had bad luck doing that. In fact, I don’t even store my pistols in cases long-term. Cases tend to trap moisture and don’t allow airflow, which promotes rust. If I’m transporting either, keeping them in a case for a short time doesn’t prove to be an issue.

What if rust sets in?

Despite our efforts, rust can still afflict our firearms. Or maybe we take possession of a gun that’s already rusted. Here are a few possible solutions to your rust issues.

Oil It!

Oil any spots or areas of rust and let the oil soak in for about half an hour. Then scrub the heck out of them. A toothbrush works well for scrubbing in the oil. Nylon or brass bristles are best; avoid wire or steel bristles.

Note: When applying oil, apply it directly to the rag if you’re using one, and then use the rag to apply it to the gun. That helps prevent the oil from getting into areas of the gun that you don’t want, such as into the stock, scope lens or other optics, lasers, leather sling, etc. It’s simply more controllable when on the rag.

Use a cotton rag to vigorously rub the surface rust. When that rag becomes dirty, switch to a clean rag and continue. Sometimes, the rag’s abrasion is enough to remove light surface rust by itself.

At first, it might feel rough as you hit resistance from the rust. As the rust is removed, you’ll feel less resistance, which is a good thing. Once the rust seems to be gone, and after the gun has rested a short time, apply oil to a fresh rag and give the gun a vigorous wipe down to make sure any rust that was missed is removed. Repeat until the rag is clean after rubbing.

If that doesn’t work…

Scrub It

After it soaks for a while, using very fine steel wool (#4 steel wool is the finest), gently rub the affected area. Be careful not to use something that’s too abrasive. In this case, less is more. This will sometimes be enough to remove the rust. Be advised that if you use the steel wool too aggressively, you’ll end up with a silver patch on your firearm where the bluing used to be.

A Penny And Oil

Apply a lubricant to the rust spots and let sit for about half an hour. Then use a penny to gently scrape the rust off of the surface. After that, wipe the area down with a clean cloth. An application of protective wax such as Renaissance Wax can help to keep the rust away.

Oil And Lead Pencil

This method works best for small spots of surface rust. Apply oil, wait a half hour, then gently use the pencil lead as a mild abrasive to scratch off the rust. The bluing should remain when the process is finished. As always, finish up by rubbing it down with some oil.

Consult A Professional

If all of these measures fail, it might be time to call in a professional gunsmith. They have methods that go beyond what a layperson is likely capable of.

If the firearm is particularly valuable or holds prominent sentimental value, it might pay you to consult a professional from the start. Meddling with the finish of a valuable firearm can easily destroy the value, which we undoubtedly don’t want to do.

In Closing

A soft, cautious approach is best when initially dealing with rust removal so that we don’t cause even more damage to the firearm’s finish. We might have to take the firearm to a professional if the rust goes below the surface. I’d especially go this route if the firearm holds significant financial or sentimental value.

Good luck in your battle against the forces of oxidation!

The post How To Remove Rust From Your Firearm appeared first on The Mag Life.

The first few AR-15s I built were at my kitchen table. But if you tinker with guns a lot, it is handy to have a dedicated area to keep your gun tools. Finding a place to set up a workstation, however, is a different story. If you’re lucky, you might have a workshop with enough room you can easily dedicate a small area to gun tools and a place to do your upgrades and repairs. But the rest of us must work with what we have.

Because of this, I made another place to park my truck which only left my wife’s car in the garage. I now had plenty of room for some other projects with the rest of the space. Today, I will cover building the benches and installing them.

Walls and Benches

I wanted a dedicated area that was just for guns. To do this, I first set up two divider walls in my garage that were about eight feet long and six feet apart. I didn’t need a lot of floor space, just some benches to work at and a place to hang some tools. The ceiling in my garage was tall so I placed some 2×4’s across the top and covered it with OSB to make a storage area.

This would give me plenty of room for what I needed and still leave a place on top to throw those items you only use once a year. I also lined the walls with OSB (or chipboard as they call it around here) to give me something solid to attach items to. The workbenches were next. If you haven’t don’t much woodworking before, don’t worry it’s not hard. At least not on this level.

I decided to make the bench 40 inches tall (not including the ¾-inch top) and 18 inches deep. I had three walls to work with, so I put work benches on two of them and left one wall for mounting some other items.

Building the Benches

Again, even if you don’t do a lot of work with power tools, or building anything, it’s not hard. For this project, all you need is a circular saw and a drill. If you have a chop saw and or table saw then great, that’s even better, it’s not hard to do it all with a circular saw.

I am a fan of Milwaukee tools so I used my cordless saw, but Wal-Mart sells a cheap saw that will get this job done. To fit in the space correctly, I needed one of the benches to be seven feet long and the other 54 inches long to fit between the first bench and the wall.

I didn’t want there to be an overhang on the counter, so I put the legs on the inside of the frame. The size of your bench can be customized to any size you want. Think of it as building Legos. You need two frames (top and bottom) and four or six legs depending on how long the bench is. Screw the 2x4s together and if you mess up, just take the screws out.

Installing the Benches and Securing Them to the Wall

Once your bench or benches are done, they need to be secured to the wall to make them more stable. I could have made my corner bench one piece, but I wanted two separate benches just in case I decided to move on someday. I placed the benches together and screwed them to the wall and connected them in the corner where both benches met.

Once they were in place, I cut strips of plywood for the top. With the length of my benches, one sheet wasn’t enough, but I already had part of another sheet in my woodshop out back. I cut the strips at 18 inches so they would not overhang from the bench. If you haven’t cut plywood before, it’s not hard either. I placed a 2×4 under mine and cut it in the yard with my circular saw.

A tape measure and chalk line were all I needed to mark it. I used wood screws to attach the top onto the benches. The strips of plywood for the shelf (which was 15 inches from the bottom) were 12 inches wide. I didn’t want the shelf to be flush with the outside of the bench because I wanted more legroom. My garage floor stays dry, so I also left enough room under the shelf to store additional items. If you’re not doing this, the shelf can be much closer to the ground.

Placing a Soft Cover on the Bench

When you make any type of workbench, just about everyone agrees you need to cover it with something. Raw wood will soak up every bit of grease, oil, paint, sweat, and anything else that touches the surface. There are several options for covering the surface, but if your workbench is for guns, I would choose something soft.

Varnish or polyurethane is great for protecting the wood, but not so much when it comes to your guns. The cheapest covering is cardboard. Take some large boxes and cut the cardboard down to fit over the top of the workbench. It’s durable and when it gets dirty or starts to tear up, just replace it.

Another option is carpet, but I have never been a fan of carpet on a workbench. This is preference so if you have an old rug or roll of carpet laying around use it. What I ended up using is a roll of Husky drawer lining from Home Depot. This is the rubbery soft liner that goes inside the drawers of the large toolboxes.

Storage Below the Work Bench

As I mentioned in the first article, building a workbench is somewhat like playing with Legos. You cut the pieces to the size you want and put them together. Make it the height, length, and depth that works for your area. It’s common to have shelving under the bench so decide what type of storage you want when building the bench.

I built mine in the garage where the floors are always dry. I wanted a place to store larger items, so I put one shelf under my bench that was high enough for a five-gallon bucket to slide under it. This allows me to store any type of plastic container directly on the floor under the bench. Smaller items can go on the shelf above.

Plastic containers and buckets are great places to store bulk items under the bench as well. I keep a five-gallon bucket full of work rags and a plastic container with extra paper towels and cleaning items. Having these things close while working on a project just makes life easier.

What can go on the wall?

Another valuable storage system I use is a plastic storage wall hardware organizer. If you keep parts for handguns, AR-15s, or any other gun, this thing is the most valuable storage system you can get. A large one with small drawers like the Akro-Mills 64-drawer plastic storage cabinet from Amazon is cheap, compact, and holds every little pin and spring you have. I used a label maker to create labels for each drawer, but a Sharpie also works.

If you don’t want to use a wall organizer or need something mobile, screw/bolt/nut organizers work great for gun parts too. This is what I used before I mounted an organizer on the wall. If you’re a competitive shooter, a small storage container with compartments is handy.

What tools do you need?

All of them! Or at least, we wish we had every tool we wanted, right? The tools you want to start with will depend on the types of guns you will be working on. There are some basic tools that are handy for any type of armorer’s workstation so start out with those. Here are some helpful tools to get started:

• Rubber Mallet
• Screwdriver Set
• Pliers
• Magnetic Wand (for finding those lost pins and springs)
• Torx/Star Driver Bit Set
• Bench Vice
• Large Crescent Wrench
• Small File
• Punch Set

Other tools will be more specific to the type of gun you are working on. For an AR-15 I would recommend the Real Avid Master Armorer’s Set. It has almost everything you need to work on your rifle including a torque wrench. A multi-purpose Glock tool is a handy way to keep just about everything you need for a Glock in one place. You should have some type of bench block on your list and a rubber tray for holding gun parts while making repairs/upgrades. If you are not familiar with Armorer’s tools, I would check out Real Avid or Wheeler products.

Make Gun Repairs Easier

Start with a bench and organize the area to keep your tools and gun parts. Add some basic tools and continue to add more as needed. Building a workbench isn’t hard, and it’s worth the effort when you are done. The more you use it, the more ideas you will have for improvements.

I added a second light once the workstation was set up because I needed more light shining directly on the area of the bench where I would make repairs. A chair or stool is another good addition, and your back will thank you for it later. Get some ideas, set it up, and make it your own space. Building, cleaning, upgrading, and repairing firearms is fun and an armorer’s workstation makes the process even better.

The post Setting Up an Armorer’s Workstation in Your Garage appeared first on The Mag Life.

What’s a gun bench?

Although many people picture a gun bench as a professional, heavy-weight setup, that isn’t always the case. You can turn almost anything into a functional gun bench whether it’s a simple foyer table repurposed for basic cleaning or a table you build for yourself out of wood scraps. It does help for the bench itself to be heavy-duty and bulky enough to withstand being pulled or pushed if you’re assembling rifles or using a drill press, but otherwise, you can make do with a lot of different designs. It can be as simple or as complex as you make it.

Ideally, your gun bench will be a good height to sit at, heavy enough not to easily move away if you put pressure on it, and sturdy enough to handle any equipment you choose to mount to it. For the purposes of this article, we’re going to assume you want a general gun bench for cleaning, basic gunsmithing, and maybe putting together an AR. You can certainly get more technical and plan one out for reloading or higher-level gunsmithing.

That brings us to this next point: before you set the bench up, stop and decide what you need it to be capable of doing. What will you use it for? How much available space do you have to get it set up?

What does a gun bench need?

Aside from the basic, sturdy features mentioned above, your gun bench is going to require some larger tools and pieces of equipment to be truly functional. Perhaps at the top of the list is a well-made gun vise. Without a vise you can’t really secure firearms so they remain still while you work on them. Taking that a step further, you can’t really secure firearms in the vise without the accompanying blocks and wedges.

Here’s what to look for in a gun vise:

• Compatibility with blocks, wedges, and sleeves for securing firearms without marring their finish or otherwise damaging them.
• Leveling knob for easier use while mounting scopes.
• Locking ball and socket to remove the risk of slipping while you’re working on your guns.
• Torque support, meaning it won’t shift when you’re applying torque to guns during gunsmithing or building.
• 360-degree capability is preferable and makes life easier.
• Solid bench mount that can be both tightened on with a clamp or bolted on for sturdier installation.
• Easily adjustable crank.

The gun vise is the first thing you’re going to want to mount to your bench. Unless your only firearm-related task is cleaning, you’re going to need that vise. Make sure you acquire whatever blocks or sleeves are required for your specific firearms so they can be protected from external damage from being clamped into a vise.

A few other things that aren’t tools to include in the early stages of gun bench setup:

• Soft gun mat with a non-slip back. This protects both the bench and the gun from damage and helps stop the gun itself from slipping.
• Gunsmith mat with compartment wells if you’ll be working with springs and screws (which you probably will be).
• Lead removal wipes for your hands. This one’s self-explanatory.
• Eye protection. Although many people don’t bother, it’s not a bad plan to have basic eye pro available to protect your eyes from flying springs and metal.
• Toolbox. You’re going to have small, hand-held tools, and it’s always nice if they have a place to live so they’re available when you need them. Size varies but you can get started with a relatively small, table-top model.
• Metal or plastic file for paperwork. The paperwork in question is going to be largely manuals you shouldn’t toss and warranty information. If you don’t have a place to store those things, get one.
• Notebook. It’s not a bad idea to keep track of parts replacements, part numbers, and other details related to your firearms.

What tools should you have on your gun bench?

The tools you’re going to need depends on the guns and what you’re doing. Generally speaking, a good place to start is with a gun specific set of screwdriver bits. The Brownell’s Magna-Tip set is a great place to start. Whatever set you get to begin, you’re going to end up expanding on it. Firearms have specific types of screws and if you try using the basic screwdrivers you got at Walmart on your guns, the odds of you damaging screws or permanently scratching your gun’s finish are high. It’s important to have the correct tool for the job, and that includes screw bits that are the precisely correct size. Over time, I’ve had to Dremel down store-bought screwdrivers to fit certain screws, usually on revolvers, so don’t be surprised if it comes to that at times. Better to file down a screwdriver to correctly fit a screw than to force the incorrect bit into the space.

Consider adding these tools early on:

• Gunsmith set of screwdriver bits.
• Gunsmith set of punches.
• Non-marring hammer, preferably with one nylon end and one brass end.
• Armorer’s wrench for AR.
• Barrel nut wrench (there are more types and sizes on the market than you may realize, so make sure you have the correct wrench for your gun/build ahead of time)
• Allen/hex keys (you’ll find these often come with a scope mount or other pieces of gear and there’s no place for them, so start collecting them in your toolbox…you can thank me later)
• Bore light
• Go/no-go gauges for the chambering you’re working on
• Gun lube
• Cleaning solution (non-abrasive)
• Q-tips
• Rags
• Bore snake
• Bore brushes and handles
• Handle extensions for screwdrivers for access inside long gun stocks, among other things
• Soft brush for cleaning slides
• Gun oil, which isn’t necessarily the same thing as lube

What else does a gun bench need?

What else you add to your gun bench is going to depend on what you’re doing. If you’re building, you’re going to want a good drill press. Now, it’s important to understand you’re unlikely to find a bench drill press capable of true precision work, but that doesn’t mean they can’t get the job done. Make sure the drill press you’re considering is compatible with a wide range of chucks and, specifically, the sizes you’re going to need. Also check the height. Not much is more frustrating than discovering the block you want to secure atop the press is too tall.

Otherwise, you’re looking at a vast array of reloading tools and equipment along with other specialty devices. Keep in mind that it takes a lot of experience (and frequently, training) to properly handle certain gunsmithing needs. It might be tempting to dive in to do it all yourself, but take it in small steps. Take a class, if possible, and spend time reading reputable sources and books. Anything that comes with step by step images and charts is helpful as well. Just be willing to know when a task is beyond your abilities and be willing to take your gun to a qualified gunsmith. If you ask nicely, they might even let you watch.

The possibilities for handheld tools are practically endless. Just figure out what you want to accomplish and take your time building a collection that suits your needs. Try to avoid using random household tools on your guns unless you’re fine with the potential of permanently damaging the gun in question.

It’s nice to have a gun bench set up that allows you to handle gun cleaning, scope mounting, and other small tasks at home without dumping gear on the kitchen table. What’s your must-have gun bench item? Tell us in the comments section.

The post Gun Bench Setup 101 appeared first on The Mag Life.

I used my M17 on the range last summer when it was hot and humid. It rained on us in the morning and then scorched us in the afternoon. We continued to shoot, regardless. By the end of the day, the M17 had all kinds of gunk building up in the slide, around the ejector, and just about everywhere else I could see. A good cleaning was all it needed to put it back in tip-top shape. You may never have this issue but it’s still good to know how to disassemble the main components of any gun. Today, we will take the M17 apart to inspect and deep clean it.

How To Field Strip the M17

Like I said earlier, most people only need to field strip the M17 for basic cleaning. Sig made this very easy process very easy, and it can be done without any tools. As always, safety first. Make sure the magazine is out of the gun and the chamber is empty. Lock the slide to the rear of the gun and flip the takedown lever down until it stops. Release the slide slowly and pull it forward off the frame of the gun. Now remove the recoil spring by lifting it from the slide and then remove the barrel. You have now field-stripped the M17.

How To Remove the M17 Frame From the Grip Module

The Sig is a little different than other handguns because the frame of the gun is separate from the grip module. Most handguns contain the frame (lower part of the gun) and the slide (upper part). The M17 has a removable frame that contains the trigger bar, trigger, safety selector, and every other lower part.

To remove the frame, simply pull the takedown lever out of the gun and lift it off the frame. Even when mine gets dirty, I can clean it without taking everything off the frame. We will cover disassembling the frame components in another article. From here, however, you can clean and re-oil everything on the lower part of the gun. The frame is considered the “gun” so this is the part that contains the serial number.

How To Remove M17 Slide Components

The next part of the gun we will look at is the slide. This is the area I see the most build-up and dirt get into. Besides cleaning, it’s good to inspect these parts on a regular basis. On the back of the slide is the slide rear cap. Next to it is the extractor spring rear guide. It looks like a small back pin or screw.

Push down on this part with an Allen wrench or something the same size as the rear guide. While pushing down, use your thumb to slowly push the end cap off the slide. With the end cap off, you can pull the extractor spring guide out. Pull the striker housing out next.

Final Step — Reassemble the Gun

Once all the parts are cleaned, I place a small amount of oil on each part before re-installing them. While the extractor is off the gun, check it for any signs of wear or damage. If you fire any steel case ammo through your gun, it will eventually wear down the extractor, but that is an easy and cheap fix.

The extractor should have a good, almost sharp-looking edge on it.  While these parts are off the slide, give the slide a good cleaning. If you ever want to take the optic plate off the slide, this is how you get to the screws that hold it on. They sit on each side of the striker housing from the bottom side of the gun. Removing these screws allows you to take the plate, rear sight, and loaded chamber indicator off.

Summary

Most parts on the M17 or the Sig P320 are easy to find and can be ordered online. If you need to replace a damaged, broken, or lost part, don’t panic. Just look up the part using a Sig P320 nomenclature (diagram of the gun) and order what you need. If you are not sure about something, contact a gunsmith for advice or repair.

The M17 is a unique gun that will remain one of my favorite handguns. Besides the fact that it’s a great shooting gun, it comes with a military history. Since 1911, the M17 has been only the third standard-issue US Military handgun. I expect it will remain in this position for years to come. Someday we will go over a complete breakdown of parts, but until then, keep your gun clean and running like a champ.

The post Disassembling and Cleaning The Sig M17 appeared first on The Mag Life.

What if I told you that was normal, and it was supposed to be too small? Some leather companies will try to pre-mold them to fit the model of gun you have. But the rest of them leave the holster snug and they do it for a reason. 

Once you have the hang of it, molding a leather holster to fit your gun is not hard at all. It takes just a little patience and a few ingredients. I have some holsters that need a little molding and forming so let’s walk through the process. As a disclaimer, I am not a professional leather worker. I have molded and formed dozens of holsters over the years, and they have all held up nicely. Let’s go over the process.

1. Prep the holster and gun.

There are a few different ways to mold your leather holster to your gun. The easiest way is the wet-fit method. For this, I am going to work on a Craft shoulder holster for my Sig M17 pistol and a Falco leather belt holster for my G19 with a tac light. The M17 will fit in the holster, but it’s too hard to draw without using both hands. The Glock will not even fit in the holster.

For the wet-fit method, a bowl or pan of warm water is needed. Hot tap water is fine, but don’t boil the water or get it too hot to put your hands in. Take the holster and submerge it in the water for about 20-30 seconds and then take it out. Set it to the side while you prepare your gun for fitting. The gun needs to be protected from the water so it will need some type of barrier. Some like to use plastic wrap but it can tear easily and get water on your gun.

Make sure there is room for the sights.

On some holsters, the iron sights on your gun will rub the leather when you draw it. This can be hard on the sights over time. To help mold a v-groove in the leather for them, I use a pencil or dowel rod. Cut the pencil so that it fits in between the front and back sights. Use painter’s tape or plastic wrap to hold it in place. This will help the leather mold a grove for the sights to slide through. As the leather dries around the pencil, it will leave room for the sights to travel through without constantly rubbing on them.

I like to use a gallon-size resealable plastic bag because it is thicker than plastic wrap. This helps make the holster just slightly bigger than the gun, which causes it to fit nicely. Make sure your gun is empty and safe to handle.  Place the gun in the bag and get as much air out of it as you can. Once you have done this, work the gun into the holster. Work the leather with your fingers and make sure the gun is seated all the way in.

2. Mold and fit the leather holster to the gun.

With the gun in the holster, you can start to work the leather around the gun. Push the leather around the gun so it forms around each part. A spoon or something smooth can be used to help push on the leather, just be sure not to scratch the leather. Once you have done this, set the gun aside for 24 hours.

As the leather dries, it will retain the shape of the gun inside it. After the holster has set for 24 hours, remove the gun. I would recommend wiping some oil on the gun in case any water got on it. To see how it fits, place the gun (without the bag) into the holster. It should fit like a glove at this point.

To keep the leather from drying out, the leather needs to be oiled. If you want to use some type of fine leather oil or treatment you can, but I just use olive oil. If you have leather boots, oil for boots can be used too. Leather holsters should be oiled on a regular basis like anything else made of leather. Once the holster has been lightly oiled, it is ready to use.

Other Methods and Considerations

While water is the easiest way to custom fit a leather holster for a gun, some holsters have finishes on them that could be damaged by soaking them in water. If the holster has a polyurethane finish or some type of coating, check with the manufacturer first. When I am not using water, I use denatured alcohol on the holster. With this method, you want to be careful not to get the alcohol on the outside of the holster.

The alcohol can eat off the finish and leave a permanent blemish. I use a small swab and slowly dab the inside of the holster with the alcohol. Once the inside has been soaked, place the bagged gun in the holster just like above. If the holster has a thumb strap that is too short, place some denatured alcohol on the back side of the strap and pull on it to slowly stretch the strap.

Once you get the strap over the gun and snap it, leave it for 24 hours. If you live in a humid environment, you may need to leave the gun in the holster for more than 24 hours. Moisture left in the holster it will cause it to continue to shrink as the leather dries if the gun is not in the holster. If you really don’t want to get your holster wet or use denatured alcohol, you can dry-fit it.

This is the simple process of placing your gun in the holster and leaving it for an extended period. I still use a bag when I do this because the extra millimeter of thickness helps give it that extra room to slide in and out without issue. This method can take a long time depending on the humidity, temperature, and the leather.

Leather Holsters — Fit Like a Glove

I used to get frustrated when my leather holsters would not fit my guns just right. Once I learned how to mold them, I started custom-fitting each holster as soon as I acquired it. If taken care of, a leather holster will last a lifetime. We have entered an age of polymer holsters, but it’s still hard to beat a good quality leather holster for a good quality handgun.

You can find shoulder holsters, belt, ankle, paddle, and inside-the-waistband holsters available in leather if that’s what you’re looking for. Just remember that leather needs a little maintenance and if you think it doesn’t fit, there is a good chance it just needs to be molded to the gun. And if done correctly, it will fit like a glove.

The post Fit Like a Glove: Molding a Leather Holster appeared first on The Mag Life.

What is gun lube?

You might be thinking you’re familiar with gun lube, and you likely do understand the general concept. “Gun lube” is a label used pretty interchangeably across oils, CLPs, and greases. However, there’s a difference between lube and CLP, and there’s also a difference between lube and the other greases and oils out there. Let’s consider what gun lube is supposed to do, and what it really is.

At its most basic function, gun lube is a slick product designed to help metal parts move against/alongside one another without excessive friction. There isn’t only one type of lube that works or should be used, either. One of the reasons “gun lube” is a term that gets confusing or frustrating is because it tends to be used as a blanket phrase to describe any gun-related product made to add slip to metal parts. That use of the term isn’t exactly wrong, but it also isn’t precisely correct. For the purpose of this article, let’s go ahead and narrow it down to oils.

What is gun oil used for?

Gun oil is used for lubricating the metal parts of a firearm, but it isn’t as thick or viscous as grease or CLP. While a CLP tends to be more of a multi-purpose gun cleaning tool, gun oil is usually only for lubrication (or mostly, anyway).

A great example of gun lube is found in the image above of Hoppe’s 9 Gun Medic Lube Quick Fix, which is similar to Breakthrough Clean Technologies Battle Born Lubricant and Preservative. This product is made specifically to lubricate the gun without coating it excessively or otherwise gumming it up. Hoppe’s recommends using a cleaning-specific product to remove fouling prior to applying the lube itself. Lube is for lubrication, not for cleaning. That doesn’t mean you can’t use it to clean, just that there are products made for cleaning that are likely to give you far better results.

What is CLP?

CLP, which stands for Clean Lube Protect, is a single product designed for multiple uses. It can do everything the name suggests from cleaning your firearm to keeping it lubricated to protecting it from corrosion, wear, and tear. However, just like all gun oils aren’t created equally, all CLPs are not the same.

Most CLPs are significantly thicker than gun oils. They can be found in a thick liquid form but are also commonly found as a paste in a tub. Some manufacturers even produce it as an aerosol. The nicest thing about using CLP is obvious: the ability to use one tub or bottle of product for everything. No need for confusion or multiple bottles taking up space. If you choose your CLP wisely, it’s absolutely possible for it to cover all your gun-related bases.

SEAL 1 is one of the best-made CLPs on the market. The team at SEAL 1 keeps it simple on their website, stating:

Our CLP Plus is a revolutionary “Green Engineered” product that cleans, lubricates and protects firearms with a non-toxic cleaner. SEAL 1 dissolves carbon on contact and creates a barrier that resists copper, lead, and carbon build up.

What’s in a CLP? That depends on the manufacturer. Just like gun oils, the chemical composition of the formula does matter, and every brand varies.

What’s better, gun oil or CLP?

You might never have considered that cleaning and lubricating products are purpose-driven, but they are. Whether you should use gun oil or CLP depends on a few factors:

• Are you only lubricating your gun, or are you trying to clean it as well?
• Does this involve at least basic disassembly, or are you trying to do a fast lube during a class or hunt?
• What temperature are you running your gun in? (Yes, it matters.)
• How filthy is the gun you’re trying to lube?
• What other products have you put on the gun since the last time you cleaned or lubed it?

Oils and CLPs have different functions. Gun oil is great for lubing on the fly because it allows you to quickly apply a few drops and go on. Of course, oil is also good for more careful, thorough lubing when the time is available. The nice thing about well-made gun oil is that it typically spreads easier than CLP, meaning if you’re in a high round count class and your gun’s dry, you’ll probably have greater success by hurriedly throwing gun oil on, rather than CLP.

Of course, CLP is usually, but not always, longer-lasting than standard gun oil. It only takes a light coat to lubricate your gun, and it lasts a long time. Depending on the brand, it’s also possible for the CLP to resist build-up from fouling better than many gun oils. And if you want to do a quick clean and lube, a bottle or tub of CLP is your go-to.

Gun oil and CLP are each designed for certain temperatures. If the gun is exposed to temperatures outside the listed range, odds are high that the substance coating them will gum up. That can be far worse than it sounds. A few years ago, one brand changed the chemical makeup of thier CLP, resulting in guns across the country freezing and locking up. This wasn’t due to excessive application or exposure to extreme temperatures but some sort of failure in the product. Of course, gun oils can do the same. Certain gun oils are known to attract and build up fouling far worse than others, which can lead to failures.

The bottom line is that you should use the product that works best for you and suits the specific moment. Lubes tend to be preferable for on-the-fly lubrication needs while CLPs are handy one-product-does-it-all options. CLPs can work quite well for everything, but they do tend to work better when you have time to take the gun apart and properly apply it. The case of gun oil vs. CLP is like so many things in the gun world: YMMV (your mileage may vary). It is specific to need and use, and it can take time to figure out which brand and formula works best for you.

What do you prefer, gun oil or CLP? Share your experiences in the comments below.

The post CLP vs. Lube: Does it Really Matter? appeared first on The Mag Life.

For the most part, if you clean the BCG and keep it oiled, it will run for a long time without issues. Inspecting it during each cleaning is important for identifying issues that may be creeping up. This could include wear on certain parts or hairline cracks in the bolt. I once took the bolt out of a rifle at my agency and found part of it had chipped off and was gone. It was magically still firing, but I wouldn’t call it reliable at that point.

I have covered the importance of inspecting an AR-15 before, but in this AR-15 BCG series, we will focus on the BCG and disassemble the bolt components.

About the Bolt Carrier

Referred to as the bolt carrier group, the bolt carrier holds the bolt, gas key, firing pin, and cam pin. We will break it down step by step and talk about each part. The bolt carrier holds all this in place and allows several things to happen in just a fraction of a second when the gun is fired. There are several types of finishes available for BCG and some are better than others. We will talk about this briefly before we get into disassembling the BCG.

The first BCGs were chrome plated to make them durable. These types are still used today, but hard to find and expensive. The current mil-spec BCGs are phosphate coated which makes them hard but leaves a rough finish. This means the bolt carrier will need more oil to run smoothly. Black Nitride is one of the more popular finishes because it is durable and the finish is slick, making it run smoothly in the gun. One of the most durable finishes you can get for an AR-15 without breaking the bank is Nickle Boron. This type of finish will last for years with heavy use and helps the BCG run smoothly inside the gun.

Other types of finishes include Diamond-Like Carbon (DLC), Titanium Nitride, and Robar NP3+. All of these finishes are extremely durable, but also expensive. The good thing about the design of the AR-15 is the BCG can be replaced in seconds. I know a lot of people who had something break on their bolt or carrier and instead of fixing it, replaced the entire BCG. But it can be fixed!

Disassembling the BCG

Taking the bolt and firing pin out of a BCG is easy and should be done every now and then for cleaning. I would recommend using a good gun cleaning mat for this part, a work rag, and a small pick from a gun cleaning kit. To remove the bolt from the carrier, use the pick to pull the retaining pin from the side of the carrier (see photo below). Once the retaining pin is out, the firing pin can be removed from the back of the bolt carrier.

With the firing pin and retaining pin out, the next step is to remove the cam pin. With the firing pin gone, the cam pin will turn halfway and then pull out. If it is not turned, the gas key will be in the way and not let it come out. After removing the cam pin, pull the bolt out of the carrier. This is how far the BCG comes apart during a regular field strip. When I have the BCG field striped, I take the opportunity to inspect it for worn or damaged parts. We will cover this process before moving on to disassembling the bolt in Part 2.

Inspecting the Bolt, Firing Pin, and Gas Key

With the BCG field stripped, I like to check the firing pin first. The firing pin is made of extremely hard metal and will last a long time. I like to clean it off and make sure there is no damage or wear to it. Then I inspect the bolt and locking lugs. The bolt is the most likely place to have fractures or cracks. These can be hard to see so I use a light to inspect the surface. The area around the cam pin hole is where I have found fractures before.

After inspecting the bolt for cracks, I check the locking lugs. In Part 2, we will take off the extractor, ejector, and gas rings. The rings can wear down and need replacing after a lot of use. Another area I like to check is the gas key. If you start to experience cycling issues, this can be caused by gas problems from the key or gas tube. The gas key should not be loose, and the screws should be staked. Staking a screw is a small indention in the metal beside the screw which keeps the screw from turning and coming loose. If the key needs to be removed, I would recommend installing a new one and staking it again.

Removing the Extractor

The extractor is like a little claw that pops over the edge of the bullet in the chamber and pulls it back out when the round is fired. If the extractor gets broken or worn down, it can stop pulling the spent shell casing out of the chamber. This will cause another bullet to try and feed behind it. When people say their rifle is “double feeding,” the real problem is often the failure to extract it.

To remove the extractor, lay the bolt in the molded area of the bench block (see photo below). There are two small pins in the bolt. The one on the right (red arrow) is the one for the extractor. The Bench Block has a small cutout in the bottom of it that will allow the pin to fall out as you push the 3/32 punch through it. With the pin out, the extractor will come off. The extractor has a small spring and rubber washer that can be removed if they need to be replaced or cleaned.

There is a small plastic post that helps keep the spring from bending. It may come off in the spring or stay in the extractor. If this spring gets damaged or worn, it could cause the extractor to not have enough force to pull the shell casing out of the chamber. The groove of the extractor tooth is a place that can build up junk and may need to be scraped out.

Removing the Ejector

Now that the extractor is off, we can remove the ejector from the bolt. Just like we did with the extractor, the bolt should be placed in the molded area of the Bench Block with the ejector pin facing up. There is a red handle that turns on the bench block. The bolt should be orientated so that the ejector is pushed in as you turn the handle (see photo below). A 1/16 roll pin punch and a small hammer should be used to tap the pin out.

Once the roll pin is out, unscrew the red handle. The ejector spring will push the ejector part way out so make sure the pressure is all the off the bench block before picking the bolt up. The ejector will be sticking out of the top of the bolt and can be removed, along with the spring under it.

When the extractor starts to pull the bullet casing out of the chamber, the ejector pushes against the casing. There is nowhere for the casing to go until it clears the ejection port. Once it clears, the pressure from the ejector flings the casing out of the gun. If the spring is weak or the ejector gets worn, the casing will not eject properly. If a gun is older and appears to have been fired a lot, I like to replace the whole set. The ejector, spring, and roll pin can be purchased for about $10.

Removing the Gas Rings

The last thing we will remove from the bolt is the gas rings. The gas rings help create a seal as the bolt travels back and forth in the bolt carrier. If the rings get worn out, they can let gas through and may cause cycling issues. To remove the gas rings, I use a gunsmith pick (like the one I pulled the retaining pin out with in Part 1). Just like you take off a tire from a car, I get the pick started under the ring and push one side out. I start with the outside ring first. With one edge out of the grove, you can work your way around the bolt, pushing the ring off as you go (see photo below).

There should be three gas rings in total that need to be removed. Once they are removed, the bolt can be cleaned, and the rings can be wiped off or replaced. They go back on the same way they came off. Start one side and work your way around until it is back in the groove. There is a small gap in each ring. The rings should be turned so that the gaps are not lined up. This will help keep gas from getting past them on the bolt.

Finishing Up

Everything has now been taken off the bolt. It can be thoroughly scrubbed and cleaned if needed, and each part can be inspected. I would recommend keeping each part in groups so you don’t get the pins and springs confused. The process of putting them back on is the same as taking them off. I would start with the gas rings, then the ejector. The extractor can go on last, and then the bolt is ready to be placed back in the bolt carrier. Just like building an AR-15, having the knowledge to take the AR-15 BCG completely apart is satisfying and fun. It allows you to maintain your own rifle and keep it running great for years to come.

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